When I sat down to design this toddler set, I had three clear goals in mind. I wanted something that looked impressive but used classic granny square construction that most crocheters already know. I wanted adjustable sizing because toddlers grow so fast. And I wanted that perfect vintage summer vibe with modern colors.
I am SO pleased with how this turned out. The combination of structured granny squares at the bodice, that sweet scalloped ruffle at the waist, and the breezy open mesh pants creates something that looks like it belongs in a boutique. The matching bucket hat ties the whole look together.
This crochet pattern gives you everything you need to create a complete warm weather outfit for a little one. The romper features tie straps at the shoulders for easy dressing and adjustable fit. Those granny square details at the leg hems add the perfect finishing touch.
About This Crochet Tutorial
This peach blossom granny square toddler set works up in DK weight cotton yarn, which makes it perfect for warm weather wear. The romper fits toddlers approximately 18 to 24 months, with easy modifications included for smaller or larger sizes.
Skill level: Intermediate. You should be comfortable joining granny squares, working in the round, and following stitch counts carefully. Nothing here is truly advanced, but the construction combines flat and circular sections.
Time estimate: Plan for approximately 12 to 18 hours total. The romper takes roughly 10 to 14 hours, and the hat adds another 2 to 4 hours.
Finished measurements:
Materials You Will Need
Yarn:
Hook: US size G-6 / 4.0 mm, or size needed to obtain gauge
Notions:
Yarn Recommendations
Any of these options will give you beautiful results:
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Peach, Coral, and Ecru. This is 100% mercerized cotton with excellent stitch definition. You will need 3 skeins MC, 1 skein Color A, and 1 skein Color B.
Paintbox Yarns Simply DK in Melon Sorbet, Lipstick Pink, and Champagne White. This budget-friendly acrylic is soft and machine washable. Purchase 3 balls MC, 1 ball Color A, and 1 ball Color B.
We Are Knitters The Cotton in Peach, Red, and Ecru. This organic pima cotton has a luxurious hand. You will need 3 skeins MC, 1 skein Color A, and 1 skein Color B.
A quick note about yarn substitution: Any DK weight yarn (CYCA weight 3) with a smooth, even twist works well. Cotton or cotton blend is strongly recommended for warm weather wear and clean stitch definition in the granny motifs. Avoid fuzzy yarns that will obscure the pretty open mesh of the pants.
Gauge (Very Important for Fit)
Granny square motif: One completed 4-round granny square should measure 3.5 inches x 3.5 inches (9 cm x 9 cm) when blocked.
Mesh body: 4 mesh repeats (each repeat equals chain 2, single crochet) x 4 rows should equal 2 inches x 2 inches (5 cm x 5 cm).
Please make at least one full granny square swatch and block it before starting the garment. Gauge is critical for proper fit on a toddler.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Let me walk you through every abbreviation you will encounter:
Special Stitches Explained
Granny Square Motif (GSM)
This is the building block of your entire set. It is a 4-round square worked from a central ring. All rounds begin with a slip stitch to the first double crochet to join unless noted otherwise.
Round 1: With Color A, make a magic ring (or chain 4 and slip stitch to first chain to form ring). Chain 3, this counts as your first double crochet. Work 2 double crochet into the ring, chain 2. Then work (3 double crochet into ring, chain 2) three more times. Slip stitch to top of beginning chain 3 to join. Fasten off Color A. You now have four 3-dc clusters and four chain 2 corner spaces.
Round 2: Join Color B with slip stitch to any corner chain 2 space. Chain 3, work 2 double crochet in same space, chain 2, 3 double crochet in same space. Your first corner is made. Chain 1. Then work (3 double crochet, chain 2, 3 double crochet) in next corner chain 2 space, chain 1. Repeat from parentheses two more times. Slip stitch to top of beginning chain 3. Fasten off Color B. You now have eight 3-dc clusters with two per corner, four chain 2 corner spaces, and four chain 1 side spaces.
Round 3: Join MC with slip stitch to any corner chain 2 space. Chain 3, 2 double crochet in same space, chain 2, 3 double crochet in same space for the corner. Chain 1, 3 double crochet in next chain 1 side space, chain 1. Work (3 double crochet, chain 2, 3 double crochet) in next corner chain 2 space. Repeat around with chain 1 between clusters on sides. Slip stitch to top of beginning chain 3. Fasten off MC. You have twelve 3-dc clusters, four chain 2 corner spaces, and eight chain 1 spaces.
Round 4: Join MC with slip stitch to any corner chain 2 space. Chain 3, 2 double crochet in same space, chain 2, 3 double crochet in same space for the corner. (Chain 1, 3 double crochet in next chain 1 space) twice, chain 1. Work (3 double crochet, chain 2, 3 double crochet) in next corner chain 2 space. Repeat around. Slip stitch to top of beginning chain 3. Fasten off MC. You now have sixteen 3-dc clusters, four chain 2 corner spaces, and twelve chain 1 spaces.
Your completed granny square motif should measure 3.5 inches (9 cm) per side when blocked.
Scallop Edging
This creates the pretty wavy trim on the ruffle and hems. Join MC to first stitch. Work (single crochet in next stitch, skip 1 stitch, 5 double crochet in next stitch, skip 1 stitch) across, ending with single crochet in last stitch. Each scallop shell uses 4 stitches from the base row.
Granny Mesh Stitch (Worked Flat)
Row 1 (setup, RS): Chain 4, this counts as double crochet plus chain 1. Work double crochet in 4th chain from hook and every 3rd chain thereafter, with chain 1 between each double crochet. Turn.
Row 2 (WS): Chain 4, double crochet in first chain 1 space. Work (chain 1, double crochet in next chain 1 space) across to last space. Chain 1, double crochet in top of turning chain. Turn.
Repeat Row 2 for pattern. Each chain 1 space counts as one mesh unit.
Granny Mesh Stitch (Worked in the Round)
Round 1: Slip stitch to any chain 1 space. Chain 4, this counts as double crochet plus chain 1. Work (double crochet in next chain 1 space, chain 1) around. Slip stitch to 3rd chain of beginning chain 4 to join.
Round 2: Slip stitch into first chain 1 space. Chain 4. Work (double crochet in next chain 1 space, chain 1) around. Slip stitch to 3rd chain of beginning chain 4.
Repeat Round 2 for pattern.
Step by Step Crochet Pattern for the Romper
Section 1: Making the Bodice Granny Squares
Make 4 Granny Square Motifs following the GSM instructions above. Do not cut your tails short. Leave at least 6 inches (15 cm) for seaming later. Block all four squares to 3.5 inches x 3.5 inches (9 cm x 9 cm).
Label your squares: Front Left (FL), Front Right (FR), Back Left (BL), and Back Right (BR). This helps keep track of your pieces during assembly.
Section 2: Joining the Bodice Squares
Step 1: Join FL to FR along one side edge. This becomes your center front seam. Hold FL and FR with wrong sides together, aligning the right edge of FL with the left edge of FR. With MC, slip stitch through corresponding chain spaces from top corner to bottom corner. This seam runs 3.5 inches (9 cm). You now have one joined front panel measuring 7 inches (18 cm) wide x 3.5 inches (9 cm) tall.
Step 2: Join BL to BR the same way along their center edges. This forms your back panel, also 7 inches (18 cm) wide x 3.5 inches (9 cm) tall.
Step 3: Join front panel to back panel along both side edges. Leave the top and bottom open. This creates your bodice tube measuring 7 inches (18 cm) wide when flat, which equals 14 inches (35.5 cm) in circumference, and 3.5 inches (9 cm) tall.
Section 3: Bodice Neckline and Strap Edging
Work this entire section with MC.
Step 1: Count the chain spaces along the top opening of the bodice tube. Each granny square contributes chain spaces along its top edge. Working into each chain 1 space as 1 space and into each chain 2 corner space as 2 spaces, the front top edge yields 11 space units and the back yields 11 space units.
Step 2: Join MC to the right outer corner of the front panel top edge. Work single crochet evenly across the front top edge. Work 2 single crochet in the first corner chain 2 space. Then work single crochet in each chain 1 space and 2 single crochet in each corner chain 2 space across, ending with 2 single crochet in the last corner chain 2 space. Front top should have 16 single crochet. Repeat for back top edge. (16 sc front, 16 sc back)
Step 3, Shape Front Neckline:
Row 1: Join MC to first single crochet of front top edge. Single crochet across all 16 single crochet. Turn. (16 sc)
Row 2: Chain 1, slip stitch in first 3 single crochet. This pulls in the outer shoulder edge. Single crochet in next 10 single crochet. Slip stitch in last 3 single crochet. Turn. (10 sc active, 3 sl sts each side)
Row 3: Chain 1, single crochet in each of the 10 center single crochet. Turn. (10 sc)
Rows 4 to 5: Repeat Row 3. (10 sc)
Fasten off MC.
Step 4, Shape Back Neckline:
Repeat Step 3 on back top edge.
Row 1: Single crochet across all 16 single crochet. Turn. (16 sc)
Row 2: Slip stitch in first 3 single crochet, single crochet in 10 center single crochet, slip stitch in last 3 single crochet. Turn. (10 sc active)
Rows 3 to 5: Single crochet across 10 center single crochet. Turn. (10 sc)
Fasten off MC.
Section 4: Shoulder Tie Straps
Make 4 straps total, 2 for front and 2 for back.
For each strap: With MC, chain 65. Single crochet in 2nd chain from hook, single crochet in each chain across. Fasten off. (64 sc, length approximately 9.5 inches or 24 cm)
This longer length gives you room for adjustable bows.
Attachment: Working from the right side, fold one end of each strap over by 0.5 inches (1.25 cm) and sew flat to the outer shoulder single crochet stitch on the front neckline row. Attach one strap per outer corner of front neckline. Attach corresponding straps to the back neckline at the same shoulder positions. The pairs tie together over the shoulder in a bow.
Section 5: Creating the Ruffle
The ruffle is worked along the lower edge of the bodice tube.
Step 1: Join MC to any corner chain space at the lower bodice edge. Work single crochet evenly all the way around the lower opening. Work 2 single crochet in each corner chain 2 space and 1 single crochet in each chain 1 space. End with slip stitch to first single crochet to join. (32 sc total in the round)
Step 2, Ruffle increase round: Chain 1, 2 single crochet in each single crochet around. Slip stitch to first single crochet to join. (64 sc)
Step 3, Ruffle scallop: Chain 1. Work (single crochet in next single crochet, skip next single crochet, 5 double crochet in next single crochet, skip next single crochet) around. Slip stitch to first single crochet to join. This round uses all 64 single crochet in groups of 4 per scallop. 64 divided by 4 equals 16 scallop shells. (16 scallop shells)
Fasten off MC. Weave in ends.
Section 6: Pants Body in Granny Mesh
The pants body is worked downward from the lower bodice edge, below the ruffle.
Step 1, Establish pants foundation: The ruffle was added on top of the 32 single crochet round. Now flip the garment and work into those same single crochet stitches from the other side. The ruffle naturally faces outward and the pants hang below.
Round 1, Pants foundation: Chain 4, this counts as double crochet plus chain 1. Skip next single crochet. Work (double crochet in next single crochet, chain 1, skip next single crochet) around. End with slip stitch to 3rd chain of beginning chain 4 to join. (16 dc + 16 ch-1 sps = 16 mesh units)
Rounds 2 to 14: Slip stitch to first chain 1 space. Chain 4. Work (double crochet in next chain 1 space, chain 1) 15 times around. Slip stitch to 3rd chain of beginning chain 4. (16 mesh units per round)
After Round 14, the pants body should measure approximately 5.5 inches (14 cm) below the ruffle base.
Section 7: Crotch Split and Leg Tubes
At Round 14, you will split the pants tube into two separate legs. Each leg will have half the mesh units.
Step 1: Place stitch markers at the side seams of the pants tube. These are the points where the front and back bodice seams align below. This divides the tube into front half (8 mesh units) and back half (8 mesh units).
Step 2, Left Leg:
Join MC with slip stitch to the first chain 1 space of the left half.
Left Leg Round 1: Chain 4. Work (double crochet in next chain 1 space, chain 1) 7 times. Slip stitch to 3rd chain of beginning chain 4. (8 mesh units)
Left Leg Rounds 2 to 6: Repeat as established. (8 mesh units)
After Round 6, left leg should measure approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) from the crotch split.
Step 3, Right Leg:
Attach MC to the chain 1 space directly opposite, at the beginning of right half. Work identical to Left Leg Rounds 1 to 6. (8 mesh units per round)
Section 8: Leg Hem Granny Squares
Each leg hem gets a border of granny squares. Four granny square motifs attach around each leg opening.
Step 1: Make 8 Granny Square Motifs following the GSM instructions. Block to 3.5 inches x 3.5 inches (9 cm x 9 cm).
Step 2: Arrange 4 squares in a row and join them side to side using the same method as bodice joining. This forms a strip 14 inches (35.5 cm) wide x 3.5 inches (9 cm) tall. Repeat for second leg with the other 4 squares.
Step 3: Join each strip into a ring by joining the first and last square’s outer edges together. This forms a ring with 14 inches (35.5 cm) circumference.
Step 4: Attach each granny square ring to the bottom of its corresponding leg tube. With MC, hold the leg tube and granny ring with right sides together. Working through corresponding chain spaces of the leg tube’s last mesh round and the top edge of the granny square ring, slip stitch all the way around to join. Ease gently to match the circumferences.
Step 5, Lower hem edging: With MC, work 1 round of single crochet along the bottom edge of each granny square ring. Then work 1 round of scallop edging along the single crochet round. (Each leg: 32 sc base, 8 scallop shells)
Total romper length from shoulder to leg hem after adding the granny square border: approximately 22 inches (56 cm).
Step by Step Crochet Pattern for the Hat
Section 9: Hat Crown with Granny Squares
Make 6 Granny Square Motifs following the GSM instructions. Block all 6 to 3.5 inches x 3.5 inches (9 cm x 9 cm).
Step 1: Join 6 granny square motifs side by side in a row. Join first and last squares to form a ring of 6 squares measuring approximately 21 inches (53 cm) circumference.
Step 2, Close the crown top:
Round 1: Join MC to top edge of the ring. Work single crochet evenly around the top edge of all 6 squares. Work 16 single crochet per square top, which equals 96 single crochet total. Slip stitch to first single crochet. (96 sc)
Round 2: Chain 1. Work (single crochet in next 6 single crochet, sc2tog) around. Slip stitch to first single crochet. (84 sc)
Round 3: Chain 1. Work (single crochet in next 5 single crochet, sc2tog) around. Slip stitch to first single crochet. (72 sc)
Round 4: Chain 1. Work (single crochet in next 4 single crochet, sc2tog) around. Slip stitch to first single crochet. (60 sc)
Round 5: Chain 1. Work (single crochet in next 3 single crochet, sc2tog) around. Slip stitch to first single crochet. (48 sc)
Round 6: Chain 1. Work (single crochet in next 2 single crochet, sc2tog) around. Slip stitch to first single crochet. (36 sc)
Round 7: Chain 1. Work (single crochet in next single crochet, sc2tog) around. Slip stitch to first single crochet. (24 sc)
Round 8: Chain 1. Work (sc2tog) around. Slip stitch to first single crochet. (12 sc)
Round 9: Chain 1. Work (sc2tog) 6 times. Slip stitch to first single crochet. (6 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch (30 cm) tail. Thread tail through yarn needle, pull through all 6 remaining single crochet, draw tight and secure. Weave in end.
Section 10: Hat Body
Work downward from the bottom edge of the 6-square ring.
Step 1: Join MC to any chain space along the bottom edge of the 6-square ring. Work single crochet evenly around the bottom edge of all 6 squares. Work 16 single crochet per square lower edge, which equals 96 single crochet. Slip stitch to first single crochet. (96 sc)
Step 2, Mesh body of hat:
Round 1: Chain 4, this counts as double crochet plus chain 1. Skip next single crochet. Work (double crochet in next single crochet, chain 1, skip next single crochet) around. Slip stitch to 3rd chain of beginning chain 4. (48 mesh units)
Rounds 2 to 4: Slip stitch to first chain 1 space. Chain 4. Work (double crochet in next chain 1 space, chain 1) 47 times. Slip stitch to 3rd chain of beginning chain 4. (48 mesh units)
After Round 4, the hat should measure approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) from crown seam to lower body edge.
Section 11: Hat Brim
The brim is worked in the round with increases to create the flat outward flange.
Round 1: Slip stitch to first chain 1 space. Chain 3, this counts as double crochet. Work 2 double crochet in same space for first shell. Chain 1. Work (3 double crochet in next chain 1 space, chain 1) 47 times. Slip stitch to top of beginning chain 3. (48 x 3-dc shells = 144 dc, 48 ch-1 sps)
Round 2: Slip stitch to first chain 1 space. Work (3 double crochet, chain 1, 3 double crochet) in that space. Chain 1. Work (3 double crochet in next chain 1 space, chain 1, (3 double crochet, chain 1, 3 double crochet) in next chain 1 space, chain 1) 23 times. Slip stitch to top of beginning chain 3. This increases every other chain 1 space, adding 24 extra 3-dc clusters. (72 clusters, 72 ch-1 sps)
Round 3: Slip stitch to first chain 1 space. Chain 3, 2 double crochet in same space. Chain 1. Work (3 double crochet in each chain 1 space, chain 1) around. Slip stitch to top of beginning chain 3. (72 clusters, 72 ch-1 sps)
Round 4, Brim scallop edging: Join MC to first chain 1 space. First work 1 single crochet in each chain 1 space around. Slip stitch to first chain 1 space. Chain 1. Single crochet in each chain 1 space around. (72 sc) Then work scallop round. Chain 1. Work (single crochet in next single crochet, skip 1, 5 double crochet in next single crochet, skip 1) around. 72 divided by 4 equals 18 shells. Slip stitch to first single crochet. Fasten off MC. (18 scallop shells)
The finished hat should measure approximately 18 to 19 inches (46 to 48 cm) in circumference at the body and 5.5 inches (14 cm) from crown to brim edge.
Size Customization Tips
To make the romper larger (24 to 36 months): Work each granny square to 4 inches x 4 inches (10 cm x 10 cm) by adding a 5th round. Add 2 extra rounds to the pants mesh body. Add 2 rounds to each leg tube. This adds approximately 1.5 inches (4 cm) in chest and 2 inches (5 cm) in length.
To make the romper smaller (12 to 18 months): Work squares to 3 inches x 3 inches (7.5 cm x 7.5 cm) by omitting Round 4 of the granny square motif. Reduce pants body to 12 rounds. Reduce leg tube to 4 rounds. This reduces chest by approximately 2 inches (5 cm).
To add inseam length without changing width: Simply add more rounds to the leg tube between Section 7 and Section 8.
For the hat: To increase circumference, add a 7th square to the hat ring. Begin with 112 single crochet in Round 1 of Section 9 Step 2 and continue decreasing by sc2tog evenly each round until 6 single crochet remain.
Finishing and Blocking Your Toddler Set
Step 1: Weave in all remaining ends using your yarn needle. Weave through the back of multiple stitches in different directions for security.
Step 2: Wet block the finished romper. Soak in cool water for 15 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water without wringing. Lay flat on a blocking mat. Pin to the finished measurements. Pay special attention to the granny squares, pulling each corner point to a crisp 90-degree angle. Allow to dry fully before removing pins.
Step 3: Block the hat over a bowl or round object approximately 6 inches (15 cm) in diameter to hold the crown shape while drying.
Important Pattern Notes
The romper has no zipper or buttons. It simply pulls on over the head, and the shoulder straps tie in adjustable bows for easy dressing.
All granny squares are made individually first and then joined using the flat slip stitch join method. Hold two squares with wrong sides together and slip stitch through corresponding chain spaces along the joining edge.
Magic ring may be substituted with chain 4 joined to a ring with slip stitch. Just remember to pull the starting tail snug after Round 1.
Weave in all ends from the granny squares before joining. Blocked squares join much more neatly than unblocked ones.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your little one. I would absolutely love to see your finished peach blossom sets! Tag me on Instagram or share in my Facebook group so I can admire your beautiful work.
If you loved making this crochet pattern, save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily later. And please drop a comment below if you make this adorable toddler set. I always love hearing how your projects turn out!
