Cherry Blossom Spring Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern

This is a cropped cardigan with cherry blossom appliques, worked in half double crochet with dimensional flowers and branch embroidery. The body is constructed flat in one piece, sleeves are worked separately, and the floral details are added at the end. If you can work half double crochet confidently and you are ready to try garment construction, this pattern will stretch your skills in the best way.

Cherry Blossom Spring Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern

The silhouette is boxy and relaxed, hitting just below the natural waist. Four pink buttons close the front, and the branches wind naturally across the body and sleeves with clusters of five-petal blossoms in blush pink and white. It looks far more complicated than it actually is.

I designed this cardigan to feel like wearing springtime. The techniques are straightforward once you break them down, and I will walk you through every single step.

Why You Will Love This Cherry Blossom Cardigan Crochet Pattern

This cardigan combines simple stitches with stunning visual impact. The body uses half double crochet (hdc) throughout, which creates a soft, slightly drapey fabric perfect for layering. The branches are added after the cardigan is complete using a surface slip stitch technique, so you do not have to worry about colorwork while crocheting the main pieces.

The flowers are small and quick to make. Each one takes about five minutes once you get the rhythm down. You will make 24 to 30 of them, which sounds like a lot, but they become almost meditative to crochet while watching television or waiting for appointments.

The construction method is beginner-friendly for garment making. You work the body flat in one piece from the bottom up, divide for the armholes, then work each section separately. No complicated seaming until the very end.

Skill Level

This pattern is rated Advanced Beginner to Intermediate. The main fabric is entirely half double crochet, which any confident beginner can handle. However, making the appliques requires comfort with working small rounds in a magic ring. Setting in the sleeves and picking up stitches for the front band require familiarity with garment construction techniques.

If you have never made a garment before, this is an excellent learning project because each technique is introduced separately and clearly.

Time Estimate

Plan for approximately 40 to 60 hours to complete this cardigan, including all the appliques and finishing work. The body and sleeves work up relatively quickly in half double crochet. The applique construction and placement take time but are relaxing handwork.

Finished Measurements

The following measurements are for the finished garment, not blocked flat.

Size Small: Chest circumference 38 in / 96.5 cm, length from shoulder 17 in / 43 cm, sleeve length 19 in / 48 cm

Size Medium: Chest circumference 42 in / 106.5 cm, length from shoulder 17.5 in / 44.5 cm, sleeve length 19.5 in / 49.5 cm

Size Large: Chest circumference 46 in / 117 cm, length from shoulder 18 in / 45.5 cm, sleeve length 20 in / 51 cm

The cardigan is designed with 4 to 6 inches of positive ease for a relaxed, boxy fit. Instructions are written for Size Small with Size Medium and Size Large in parentheses: S (M, L).

Materials

Yarn:

  • Main Color (MC) in warm oatmeal/ecru: Worsted weight (CYCA 4), approximately 1,000 (1,150, 1,300) yards / 915 (1,050, 1,190) meters
  • Color A (blush pink): approximately 50 yards / 46 meters
  • Color B (white): approximately 50 yards / 46 meters
  • Color C (brown/taupe): approximately 30 yards / 28 meters
  • Color D (pale pink/light blush, for centers): approximately 15 yards / 14 meters
  • Color E (gold/yellow, for flower centers): approximately 10 yards / 9 meters
  • Recommended Yarns:

    1. Lion Brand Yarn Heartland (100% acrylic, 251 yards per 5 oz skein)

    2. Paintbox Yarns Simply DK used double-stranded

    3. We Are Knitters The Wool (100% merino wool, 186 yards per 3.5 oz skein)

    Choose a smooth-plied yarn without heavy texture. Avoid chenille or boucle, which will obscure the stitch definition and make applique attachment difficult.

    Hooks:

  • US size J-10 / 6.0 mm for main fabric
  • US size I-9 / 5.5 mm for ribbing and appliques
  • Notions:

  • Four 3/4 in / 19 mm pink buttons
  • Yarn needle
  • Stitch markers (at least 6)
  • Scissors
  • Blocking mat and pins
  • Rust-proof T-pins
  • Gauge

    With MC and J-10 / 6.0 mm hook, in half double crochet:

    14 stitches = 4 in / 10 cm

    10 rows = 4 in / 10 cm

    Gauge is essential for fit. Make a 6 x 6 inch swatch, block it, and measure before beginning. Adjust hook size up if your stitches are too small, down if too large.

    Abbreviations

  • beg = beginning
  • BLO = back loop only
  • ch = chain
  • ch-sp = chain space
  • cont = continue
  • dc = double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops twice)
  • dec = decrease
  • hdc = half double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops)
  • hdc2tog = half double crochet two together (a decrease stitch)
  • inc = increase (two stitches in one stitch)
  • MR = magic ring
  • pm = place marker
  • rem = remaining
  • rep = repeat
  • rnd = round
  • RS = right side
  • sc = single crochet
  • sk = skip
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sm = slip marker
  • sp = space
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • t-ch = turning chain
  • WS = wrong side
  • yo = yarn over
  • Special Stitches

    Half Double Crochet Two Together (hdc2tog)

    This is your decrease stitch. Yarn over, insert hook in first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Without completing the stitch, yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through all 5 loops. You have turned two stitches into one.

    Slip Stitch Ribbing

    This creates the stretchy ribbed texture at the hem and cuffs. Work each row in back loop only (BLO). Row 1: Chain the desired number plus 1, slip stitch in second chain from hook and in each chain across. Turn. Row 2 and onward: Chain 1, slip stitch BLO in each stitch across. Turn. The chain 1 does not count as a stitch.

    Five-Petal Flower Applique

    With smaller hook and Color A or B, make a magic ring. Round 1: Chain 1, work 5 single crochet into the ring, pull ring closed, slip stitch to first single crochet to join. (5 sc)

    Round 2 (petals): For each of the 5 stitches, work the following in the same stitch: chain 3, work 3 double crochet in that same stitch, chain 3, slip stitch in that same stitch. That is one petal. After completing all 5 petals, slip stitch to base of first petal. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

    With Color E (gold), thread yarn needle and stitch 3 to 4 short straight stitches through the center of each completed flower to suggest stamens.

    Branch Outline (Surface Stitch)

    After the cardigan body is complete, use Color C and the smaller hook. Insert hook from the right side through a stitch on the surface, catch a loop of Color C from behind the work, and pull up a loop. Working along your planned branch path, insert hook through the next stitch diagonally or along the row, catch Color C, and pull through both the work and the loop on the hook (a surface slip stitch). Continue to create branch lines. Secure ends on the wrong side.

    Pattern Notes

    1. The body is worked flat in one piece from the lower hem to the underarms, then divided into three sections: left front, back, and right front.

    2. Throughout the body and sleeves, chain 1 at the beginning of each row does NOT count as a stitch. Always insert your hook into the first stitch of the row, not into the chain 1.

    3. The ribbed hem is worked separately as a horizontal strip, then stitches are picked up from the long edge to begin the body.

    4. Applique flowers and branches are added last, after all blocking is complete.

    5. When only one number appears in the instructions, it applies to all sizes.

    Step by Step Crochet Tutorial

    Body Hem Ribbing

    With MC and smaller (I-9) hook, ch 8.

    Ribbing Row 1: Sl st in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (7 sl sts)

    Ribbing Rows 2 through 130 (146, 162): Ch 1, sl st BLO in each st across. Turn.

    After completing the final row, do not fasten off. The long side of the ribbing strip now has 130 (146, 162) row-end ridges. Rotate the work 90 degrees to begin picking up stitches along this long edge. Switch to larger (J-10) hook.

    Checkpoint: The ribbing strip should measure approximately 37 in / 94 cm (41.5 in / 105 cm, 46 in / 117 cm) along its long edge.

    Body Setup Row

    Working across the long edge of the ribbing:

    Setup Row (RS): Ch 1, work 1 hdc in each row-end ridge across the ribbing edge. Turn. (130, 146, 162 hdc)

    Body

    Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn. (130, 146, 162 hdc)

    Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn. (130, 146, 162 hdc)

    Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until the body measures 10 in / 25.5 cm (10.5 in / 26.5 cm, 11 in / 28 cm) from the top edge of the ribbing. This is approximately 25 (26, 27) total hdc rows above the pickup row.

    Checkpoint: After completing the body to the underarm, your piece should measure approximately 12 in / 30.5 cm total height including ribbing and be 130 (146, 162) stitches wide.

    Dividing for Armholes

    The stitch allocation is:

  • Left Front: 30 (34, 38) sts
  • Left Underarm: 5 (5, 5) sts skipped and chained
  • Back: 60 (68, 76) sts
  • Right Underarm: 5 (5, 5) sts skipped and chained
  • Right Front: 30 (34, 38) sts
  • Division Row (RS): Ch 1, hdc in first 30 (34, 38) sts for Right Front. Ch 5, sk next 5 sts for Right Underarm. Hdc in next 60 (68, 76) sts for Back. Ch 5, sk next 5 sts for Left Underarm. Hdc in last 30 (34, 38) sts for Left Front. Turn.

    Right Front

    Work on the 30 (34, 38) sts of the Right Front only. Place remaining sts on holders.

    Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, hdc in each of 30 (34, 38) sts. Turn. (30, 34, 38 hdc)

    Rows 2 through 14: Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn. (30, 34, 38 hdc)

    Neckline Shaping:

    Neck Shaping Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc to end. Turn. (29, 33, 37 hdc)

    Neck Shaping Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. (28, 32, 36 hdc)

    Neck Shaping Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc to end. Turn. (27, 31, 35 hdc)

    Neck Shaping Row 4 (WS): Ch 1, hdc to end. Turn. (27, 31, 35 hdc)

    Shoulder Rows:

    Row 15 (RS): Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn. (27, 31, 35 hdc)

    Row 16 (WS): Ch 1, hdc in each st across. (27, 31, 35 hdc)

    Fasten off. Place a stitch marker on each end of this shoulder edge.

    Left Front

    Rejoin MC at armhole edge of Left Front section (RS facing). Work to mirror the Right Front.

    Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, hdc in each of 30 (34, 38) sts. Turn. (30, 34, 38 hdc)

    Rows 2 through 14: Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn. (30, 34, 38 hdc)

    Neckline Shaping:

    Neck Shaping Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. (29, 33, 37 hdc)

    Neck Shaping Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc to end. Turn. (28, 32, 36 hdc)

    Neck Shaping Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. (27, 31, 35 hdc)

    Neck Shaping Row 4 (WS): Ch 1, hdc to end. Turn. (27, 31, 35 hdc)

    Shoulder Rows:

    Row 15 (RS): Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn. (27, 31, 35 hdc)

    Row 16 (WS): Ch 1, hdc in each st across. (27, 31, 35 hdc)

    Fasten off.

    Back

    Rejoin MC at right armhole edge of Back section (RS facing).

    Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, hdc in each of 60 (68, 76) sts. Turn. (60, 68, 76 hdc)

    Rows 2 through 20: Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn. (60, 68, 76 hdc)

    Back Neck and Shoulder Shaping:

    Back Neck Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, hdc in first 27 (31, 35) sts (right shoulder). Ch 1, skip center 6 (6, 6) sts for back neck, join second ball of MC, hdc in last 27 (31, 35) sts (left shoulder). Turn. (27, 31, 35 hdc each side)

    Back Neck Row 2 (WS): Each side: Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Fasten off. (27, 31, 35 hdc each side)

    Join shoulder seams using mattress stitch or slip stitch seam, wrong sides together for a clean right side join.

    Sleeve Cuff Ribbing (Make 2)

    With MC and smaller (I-9) hook, ch 8.

    Cuff Ribbing Row 1: Sl st in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (7 sl sts)

    Cuff Ribbing Rows 2 through 38 (40, 42): Ch 1, sl st BLO in each st across. Turn.

    Rotate work 90 degrees and switch to larger J-10 hook.

    Cuff Setup Row (RS): Ch 1, work 1 hdc in each row-end ridge. Turn. (38, 40, 42 hdc)

    Sleeves

    Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn. (38, 40, 42 hdc)

    Increase Row (RS): Ch 1, 2 hdc in first st, hdc to last st, 2 hdc in last st. Turn. (2 sts increased)

    Work an increase row every 4th row 10 (11, 12) times total.

    After all increase rows:

  • Small: 58 hdc
  • Medium: 62 hdc
  • Large: 66 hdc
  • Between increase rows, work even hdc rows. Total sleeve body rows from cuff pickup to underarm: approximately 40 (44, 48) rows.

    Sleeve Cap Shaping

    Cap Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sl st in first 3 sts (underarm bind-off), hdc to last 3 sts, turn, leaving last 3 unworked. (52, 56, 60 hdc)

    Cap Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. (50, 54, 58 hdc)

    Cap Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. (48, 52, 56 hdc)

    Repeat Cap Row 3 every RS row 10 (11, 12) more times.

    After repeats: Small: 28 hdc, Medium: 30 hdc, Large: 32 hdc

    Final cap row (WS): Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. Small: (26 hdc), Medium: (28 hdc), Large: (30 hdc)

    Fasten off, leaving a long sewing tail.

    Fold each sleeve with right sides together and seam the long edge from cuff to underarm. Set sleeves into armholes, aligning the top center of the sleeve cap with the shoulder seam. Sew in place with whipstitch.

    Front Band

    With MC and smaller I-9 hook, RS facing, starting at the lower right front corner:

    Pick up and work hdc evenly along the right front edge, across the back neck opening, and down the left front edge. Pick up approximately 1 hdc per row-end edge along the front sides, and 1 hdc per stitch across the back neck.

    Approximate total pickup count: 96 (100, 104) hdc.

    Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn. (96, 100, 104 hdc)

    Row 2, Buttonhole Row (RS): For Size Small right front (approximately 40 right front sts): hdc 5, ch 2 sk 2, hdc 7, ch 2 sk 2, hdc 7, ch 2 sk 2, hdc 7, ch 2 sk 2, hdc 3, then hdc across remaining back neck and left front.

    Row 3 (WS): Ch 1, hdc in each hdc, and 2 hdc in each ch-2 buttonhole sp across. Turn. (96, 100, 104 hdc)

    Fasten off.

    Cherry Blossom Appliques

    Make approximately 24 to 30 flowers total in a mixture of Color A (blush pink) and Color B (white) following the Five-Petal Flower Applique instructions in the Special Stitches section.

    Branch Construction

    Plan your branch layout:

  • Right Front: One main branch beginning near the lower right front, curving diagonally up toward the left shoulder. Approximately 8 to 10 inches of main branch, with 3 to 4 sub-branches.
  • Left Front: One main branch beginning near the left shoulder area, curving down. Approximately 6 to 8 inches of main branch, with 2 to 3 sub-branches.
  • Right Sleeve: One branch running along the length of the outer sleeve from near the cuff toward the upper arm.
  • Left Sleeve: One shorter branch near the lower arm and one near the upper arm.
  • Using Color C and the smaller hook, work surface slip stitch along each planned branch line.

    Attaching Flowers

    Position flowers along and near the branch ends, at intervals that feel natural. Clusters of 2 to 4 flowers near branch tips look most realistic. Sew each flower to the cardigan surface at the center, taking several stitches through the center ring to anchor firmly.

    Button Attachment

    Sew 4 buttons to the left front band, aligning each button directly across from its corresponding buttonhole.

    Finishing and Blocking

    Weave in all ends securely. Block the completed cardigan before attaching appliques by wet-blocking in cool water, gently squeezing out excess water in a towel, and laying flat on a blocking mat pinned to measurements. Allow to dry completely.

    Attach appliques to the blocked and dried cardigan. Lightly steam from the wrong side only using a pressing cloth to relax any puckering around applique attachment points.

    Care Instructions

    Hand wash in cool water with a gentle wool wash. Do not wring or twist. Press flat between two towels to remove moisture. Lay flat to dry, reshaping to measurements. Do not hang while wet. Store folded, never on a hanger.

    For 100% acrylic yarns, follow label instructions. Most can tolerate a gentle machine wash in a mesh laundry bag.

    Cherry Blossom Spring Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern

    Size Customization Tips

    To make the cardigan longer, add rows to the body section before the underarm divide. Each additional 2.5 rows adds approximately 1 inch of length.

    To adjust chest circumference, add or remove stitches in multiples of 2 to the foundation pickup count. Distribute equally between fronts and back.

    To lengthen the sleeves, add more even rows between increase rows and add total length before the sleeve cap.

    Thank you so much for choosing this cherry blossom cardigan pattern! I truly hope you enjoy making it as much as I enjoyed designing it. The moment you slip it on and see those branches and blossoms come to life, all those hours of work will feel completely worth it. If you make one, I would absolutely love to see it. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo on Facebook so I can admire your beautiful work!

    If this pattern caught your eye, go ahead and save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you are ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make one. I love hearing how your projects turn out and seeing the color combinations you choose!

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