Lavender Lop Ear Bunny Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern

OH MY GOODNESS, this pattern! If you have been waiting for the perfect project to make a little one in your life squeal with delight, this is it. The Lavender Lop Ear Bunny Cardigan is one of those show-stopping pieces that looks incredibly complex but breaks down into totally manageable steps. Those floppy lop ears? Easier than you think. That gorgeous textured body? Just one stitch repeated over and over.

Lavender Lop Ear Bunny Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern

I am SO excited to share this pattern with you because it truly has everything. We are talking about a cozy hooded cardigan with the most adorable oversized bunny ears, a sweet peter pan collar, ribbed cuffs, and decorative silver buttons down the front. It is the kind of project that makes people gasp when they see the finished piece. Perfect for Easter, baby showers, birthday gifts, or just because a toddler deserves to look like the cutest bunny in the room.

Whether you have tackled garments before or this is your first time working a top-down cardigan, I have got you covered with detailed instructions, checkpoint measurements, and plenty of tips along the way. Let us dive into this heirloom-quality bunny cardigan!

About This Crochet Pattern

This cardigan is designed for toddlers and young children, with sizes ranging from 12-18 months up to 4T. The construction moves from the top down, which means you start at the neckline and work your way to the hem. You will work the yoke first, then separate the sleeves onto holders, complete the body, and add all the fun embellishments last.

The main texture throughout the body comes from an offset half double crochet (OHdc) stitch that creates a subtle woven or basketweave look. It sounds fancy, but I promise it is just a simple variation of a stitch you probably already know.

Skill Level: Intermediate. You should be comfortable working in rows and rounds, following stitch counts carefully, and sewing seams neatly. Nothing here requires advanced techniques, just attention to detail.

Time Estimate: Approximately 14 to 20 hours total, including all finishing.

Finished Measurements

The pattern is written for size 2T with changes for other sizes noted in parentheses in this format: 12-18 months (2T, 3T, 4T). When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

  • 12-18 months: Chest 20 in / 51 cm, Length 13 in / 33 cm, Sleeve 7 in / 18 cm
  • 2T: Chest 22 in / 56 cm, Length 14.5 in / 37 cm, Sleeve 8 in / 20 cm
  • 3T: Chest 24 in / 61 cm, Length 15.5 in / 39 cm, Sleeve 8.5 in / 22 cm
  • 4T: Chest 25.5 in / 65 cm, Length 16.5 in / 42 cm, Sleeve 9 in / 23 cm
  • The garment is designed with approximately 1.5 to 2 inches of positive ease at the chest for a comfortable, roomy fit.

    Materials Needed

    Yarn:

  • Main Color (MC): Worsted weight yarn (weight category 4), approximately 600 (700, 800, 900) yards in soft lavender
  • Contrast Color (CC): White or cream bulky-weight plush or bouclé yarn, approximately 80 (90, 100, 110) yards for ear linings. You can also substitute white sherpa or minky fabric cut to shape and hand-sewn in place.
  • Yarn Suggestions:

  • Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in Dusty Purple works beautifully with excellent stitch definition
  • Paintbox Yarns Simply DK held double creates a softer hand
  • WeCrochet Wool of the Andes Worsted in Clarity Heather or Amethyst Heather for an heirloom quality result
  • Hooks:

  • US size J-10 / 6.0 mm for main body
  • US size I-9 / 5.5 mm for ribbed cuffs and collar
  • Notions:

  • Yarn needle for seaming
  • Stitch markers, at least 6
  • Five decorative silver shank buttons, approximately 5/8 in / 16 mm diameter
  • Sewing needle and matching thread for buttons
  • Optional: small amount of white felt or sherpa fabric for ear linings if not using CC yarn
  • Gauge

    Getting gauge right is mandatory for this garment. Even half a stitch per inch difference will significantly affect the chest measurement over 100+ stitches.

    With MC and J-10 / 6.0 mm hook in offset half double crochet stitch pattern:

    14 stitches and 12 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm, blocked

    With MC and I-9 / 5.5 mm hook in back-loop-only single crochet ribbing:

    16 stitches and 18 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm

    Make and measure a 6-inch swatch before beginning. Trust me on this one!

    Abbreviations

    Let me define every abbreviation you will encounter. If you are newer to crochet, bookmark this section.

  • beg = beginning
  • BLO = back loop only (working into just the back loop of the stitch instead of both loops)
  • ch = chain (the foundation stitch that creates a string of loops)
  • ch-sp = chain space
  • dc = double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops twice)
  • hdc = half double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops)
  • hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together, a decrease stitch
  • inc = increase (2 stitches worked in same stitch)
  • MC = main color
  • CC = contrast color
  • pm = place marker
  • rem = remaining
  • rep = repeat
  • rnd = round
  • RS = right side (the public-facing side of your work)
  • sc = single crochet (insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through both loops)
  • sc2tog = single crochet 2 together, a decrease
  • sk = skip
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sm = slip marker
  • sp = space
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • t-ch = turning chain
  • tog = together
  • WS = wrong side (the inside of your work)
  • yo = yarn over
  • Special Stitches Explained

    Offset Half Double Crochet (OHdc)

    This stitch creates the beautiful woven texture you see throughout the cardigan body and hood. Instead of inserting your hook into the top two loops of the stitch below, you insert it into the gap between stitch posts.

    Foundation Row: Chain the required number plus 1. Work 1 hdc in 3rd chain from hook and in each chain across. Turn.

    All Following Rows: Ch 1 (this does not count as a stitch throughout the entire pattern). Insert hook into the gap between the current stitch post and the next stitch post. Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. Work across to the last stitch, then insert hook under both loops of the last stitch to maintain a clean edge. Turn.

    The turning chain of ch 1 is never counted as a stitch. Always work your first stitch into the first stitch at the base of the chain.

    Back-Loop-Only Single Crochet Rib (BLO-sc rib)

    This creates the stretchy vertical ribbing used for the cuffs.

    Chain the required number. Work 1 sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. Turn.

    All Following Rows: Ch 1, work 1 sc in BLO of each stitch across. Turn.

    Hdc2tog (Half Double Crochet 2 Together)

    This is your decrease stitch. Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into following stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook). Yarn over, pull through all 5 loops. You have decreased by 1 stitch.

    Sc2tog (Single Crochet 2 Together)

    Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop. Insert hook into following stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. One stitch decreased.

    Pattern Notes Before You Begin

    1. The cardigan is worked from the top down with the button band integrated along the front opening.

    2. The body is NOT worked in the round. It stays flat and open at the center front throughout.

    3. Turning chains do not count as stitches anywhere in this pattern.

    4. Stitch counts appear in parentheses at the end of each row or round.

    5. Buttonholes are worked on the left front during the yoke phase.

    6. The hood is worked separately, seamed at the back, then joined to the neckline.

    7. The ears are worked flat in two layers, joined, and attached to the hood.

    8. Always join new yarn at the beginning of a RS row.

    Step-by-Step Crochet Pattern Instructions

    Yoke

    The yoke is worked flat from the neckline down. Raglan increases are placed at 4 points to define two fronts, two sleeves, and one back.

    With MC and J-10 hook, chain 43 (47, 51, 55).

    Setup Row (RS): Ch 1, work 1 hdc in 3rd chain from hook and in each chain across. Turn.

    Stitch count: 41 (45, 49, 53) hdc

    Place markers to define raglan sections:

  • Right Front: stitches 1 through 6 (7, 8, 9). Place Marker A after.
  • Right Sleeve: next 6 (7, 8, 9) stitches. Place Marker B after.
  • Back: next 16 (16, 16, 18) stitches. Place Marker C after.
  • Left Sleeve: next 6 (7, 8, 9) stitches. Place Marker D after.
  • Left Front: remaining stitches.
  • Yoke Increase Row (RS): Ch 1. Work OHdc to 1 stitch before Marker A, work 2 OHdc in next gap (increase made), sm, work 2 OHdc in next gap (increase made). Continue this pattern at each marker. Turn.

    8 stitches increased total per increase row

    Yoke WS Row: Ch 1, work OHdc across all stitches, moving markers as you pass them. Turn. No change in stitch count.

    Work Yoke Increase Row and Yoke WS Row alternately for a total of 14 (15, 16, 17) increase rows.

    After all increase rows:

  • 12-18 months: 153 sts
  • 2T: 165 sts
  • 3T: 177 sts
  • 4T: 189 sts
  • Work 2 additional plain WS rows after the last increase row before separating sleeves.

    CHECKPOINT: Your piece should measure approximately 5.5 (6, 6.5, 7) inches from the neckline chain to the base of the yoke, measured along the center back.

    Buttonhole Row

    Buttonholes are placed on the right front band. Work buttonholes on Row 3 of the yoke and then every 8th row thereafter, 5 buttonholes total.

    On a RS Yoke Increase Row, when you reach the right front section, work to the buttonhole position, chain 2, skip 2 stitches, then continue as established.

    On the following WS row, work 2 OHdc into the ch-2 space to restore stitch count.

    Sleeve Separation

    After the yoke is complete and 2 plain rows have been worked:

    Body Separation Row (RS): Ch 1. Work OHdc across Right Front section, chain 4 (4, 5, 5) for underarm, skip all Right Sleeve sts and place them on a stitch holder, work OHdc across Back, chain 4 (4, 5, 5) for underarm, skip all Left Sleeve sts and place on holder, work OHdc across Left Front. Turn.

    Body stitch count after separation:

  • 12-18 months: 93 sts
  • 2T: 99 sts
  • 3T: 107 sts
  • 4T: 113 sts
  • Body

    Continue working body flat in OHdc stitch pattern. Work 4 plain rows after separation.

    A-line Flare Increase Row: Work to center of right side seam position, work 2 OHdc into one gap, continue to center of left side seam position, work 2 OHdc into one gap. Turn. 2 sts increased

    Repeat A-line Flare Increase Row every 4th row, 4 (5, 5, 6) times total.

    Final body stitch counts:

  • 12-18 months: 101 sts
  • 2T: 109 sts
  • 3T: 117 sts
  • 4T: 125 sts
  • Work plain rows until body measures 8 (9, 9.5, 10) inches from underarm.

    Body Hem: Switch to I-9 hook. Work 3 rows of BLO single crochet across all body stitches. Fasten off.

    Sleeves

    Return held sleeve stitches to J-10 hook.

    Sleeve Setup Round: Ch 1, work 1 OHdc in each held sleeve stitch around, then work 4 (4, 5, 5) OHdc across the underarm chain stitches. Join with sl st to first stitch. Work in joined rounds.

    38 (41, 45, 48) sts

    Work 4 rounds plain OHdc.

    Sleeve Decrease Round: Ch 1. Work OHdc to 2 sts before end of round, hdc2tog, sl st to first stitch. 1 st decreased

    Repeat Sleeve Decrease Round every 5th round 3 (3, 4, 4) times more.

    Work plain rounds until sleeve measures 5.5 (6, 6.5, 7) inches from underarm.

    Sleeve Cuff: Switch to I-9 hook. Work 6 rounds BLO sc. Fasten off.

    Repeat for second sleeve.

    Hood

    With MC and J-10 hook, chain 55 (59, 63, 67).

    Hood Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, work 1 OHdc in 3rd chain from hook and in each chain across. Turn.

    53 (57, 61, 65) sts

    Work plain OHdc rows until hood panel measures 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5) inches from foundation chain.

    Hood Back Seam: Fold panel in half with RS together. Sl st or whipstitch through both layers across the top edge. Turn RS out.

    Hood Neckline Attachment: With RS of hood facing RS of cardigan neckline, whipstitch hood to neckline through both layers.

    Ears (Make 2)

    Each ear has one MC panel and one CC panel.

    Outer Ear (MC): With MC and J-10 hook, chain 13 (13, 15, 15).

    Ear Row 1: Ch 1, work 1 OHdc in 3rd chain from hook and each chain across. Turn.

    11 (11, 13, 13) sts

    Rows 2 through 6: Work plain OHdc. Turn.

    Row 7 (Decrease Row): Ch 1, hdc2tog, work OHdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Turn.

    9 (9, 11, 11) sts

    Rows 8 through 10: Work plain OHdc.

    Row 11 (Decrease Row): Ch 1, hdc2tog, work OHdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Turn.

    7 (7, 9, 9) sts

    Continue until ear measures 10 (10, 11, 11) inches from beginning.

    Inner Ear (CC): With CC and J-10 hook, chain 11 (11, 13, 13).

    Work in sc, following the same decrease schedule but starting with 9 (9, 11, 11) sts and decreasing to 5 (5, 7, 7) sts.

    Joining Ears: Place inner ear centrally on WS of outer ear. Whipstitch around all edges, leaving bottom open.

    Ear Attachment: Fold bottom 1 inch of each ear to create a pleat. Position ears approximately 2.5 (2.5, 3, 3) inches apart at the hood crown. Stitch securely.

    Peter Pan Collar

    With MC and I-9 hook, chain 57 (61, 65, 69).

    Collar Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. Turn.

    56 (60, 64, 68) sts

    Collar Row 2: Ch 1. Work (1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc) in first stitch, 1 dc in next stitch, (1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc) in next stitch, sk 1 stitch. Repeat across.

    Whipstitch collar to neckline over the hood attachment.

    Front Button Band

    With I-9 hook and MC, work 2 rows of sc along each front edge, working 1 sc per row end.

    Sew buttons to right front band aligned with buttonholes.

    Finishing and Blocking

    Weave in all ends securely. Fill any gaps at sleeve underarm joins using a figure-eight closure.

    Wet blocking is strongly recommended. Soak in cool water for 20 minutes, gently press out water, lay flat on blocking mat, pin to finished measurements, and allow to dry 12 to 24 hours.

    For pure acrylic, steam block by holding a steam iron 0.5 to 1 inch above the surface. Never press directly onto acrylic.

    Lavender Lop Ear Bunny Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern

    Care Instructions

    For acrylic yarn: Machine wash cold on gentle cycle, tumble dry low.

    For wool or wool blend: Hand wash in cool water with wool wash. Reshape and dry flat.

    Store folded to prevent shoulder stretching.

    I really hope you love making this Lavender Lop Ear Bunny Cardigan as much as I loved designing it! If this pattern is on your to-do list, go ahead and pin it to your crochet board so you can find it when you are ready to cast on. And please, if you make one, drop a comment below or tag me on social media. I would absolutely love to see your version of this sweet little bunny coat!

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