This is a mesh market tote with dimensional crochet roses. The bag uses single crochet, double crochet, and basic chain stitches. If you can work in the round and roll a spiral rose, you can make this romantic tote.
The construction is straightforward. You start with a flat oval base, work mesh rounds straight up for the body, add reinforced straps, then sew on the floral cluster. Each section builds logically on the last.
I love how the open mesh gives this bag a light, airy feel while the cotton yarn keeps it sturdy enough for farmers market runs or beach days. The roses look intricate, but they are simply long strips of double crochet rolled into spirals. Once you make your first one, the rest go quickly.
Why You Will Love This Crochet Tote Pattern
The Rose Garden Tote hits that sweet spot between practical and pretty. The mesh body means it folds down to almost nothing in your purse, but it expands to hold produce, library books, or craft supplies. The cotton yarn is machine washable. The dimensional roses add vintage charm without being fussy.
This crochet pattern works well for gift giving too. The floral cluster makes it feel special and handmade, but the neutral blush pink goes with everything. I have made several of these for friends who wanted a reusable shopping bag that does not look like a grocery store giveaway.
The total project time runs between 12 and 18 hours for an average intermediate crocheter. That sounds like a lot, but most of it is repetitive mesh rounds. Perfect for watching TV or listening to podcasts.
Materials Needed for the Rose Garden Crochet Tote
Yarn
Main Color (MC): Approximately 550 yards (503 m) of worsted weight, 100 percent cotton yarn in dusty blush pink
Rose Color A (RCA): Approximately 30 yards (27 m) in deep dusty rose
Rose Color B (RCB): Approximately 25 yards (23 m) in medium mauve pink
Rose Color C (RCC): Approximately 25 yards (23 m) in pale blush white
Leaf Color (LC): Approximately 35 yards (32 m) in sage green
Recommended Yarns
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Rose for the main color works beautifully. This tightly spun mercerized cotton holds its shape in mesh constructions and washes well.
Paintbox Yarns Simply DK Cotton offers a wide range of pinks, mauves, and greens with excellent stitch definition for the roses.
Drops Paris in dusty rose and sage colorways is an affordable worsted cotton with good drape, available internationally.
Choose a smooth, plied cotton or cotton blend yarn with good stitch definition. Avoid fuzzy or halo yarns, which will obscure the mesh pattern and flatten the rose texture. The yarn should have minimal stretch so the bag retains its shape when loaded.
Hooks
US size H/8 (5.0 mm) for bag body and straps
US size G/6 (4.0 mm) for roses and leaves. The slightly tighter tension gives the florals better structure.
Notions
Finished Size
Bag body: Approximately 14 inches wide by 13 inches tall, excluding straps (35.5 cm by 33 cm)
Strap length: Approximately 24 inches (61 cm) each, giving a total drop of about 12 inches (30.5 cm) from the top of the bag
Depth at widest point: Approximately 5 inches (12.7 cm)
These measurements reflect the bag lying flat and empty. The mesh structure means the bag stretches gently under load.
Gauge
With H/8 (5.0 mm) hook and MC:
Mesh pattern: 14 mesh stitches and 10 mesh rows = 4 inches by 4 inches (10 cm by 10 cm). Each mesh stitch consists of 1 single crochet plus the chain 2 space that follows it, so 14 mesh stitches means 14 single crochet posts measured across 4 inches.
Bag base in single crochet: 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 inches by 4 inches (10 cm by 10 cm) with H/8 hook
Take time to check your gauge. An incorrect gauge will alter both the finished dimensions and the visual proportion of the mesh squares.
Skill Level
Intermediate. The pattern uses simple mesh construction but requires working a flat oval base, managing even increases, crocheting 3D spiral roses, and assembling multiple components neatly. If you are comfortable working in the round, joining rounds, and sewing on appliques, you will find this approachable.
Abbreviations
Special Stitches
Mesh Stitch Unit
Each mesh unit consists of 1 single crochet (sc) into the designated stitch or space, chain 2 (ch 2), skip 2 stitches or the next chain 2 space. When worked in rounds, you will sc into each sc of the previous round and ch 2 over each ch 2 space. This creates the open square grid visible in the finished bag.
Sc2tog (Single Crochet Two Together)
This is a decrease stitch. Insert hook into next stitch and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). Insert hook into following stitch and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through all 3 loops. One decrease made.
Standing Single Crochet
Used when joining a new color without a slip stitch start. Make a slip knot on hook, insert hook into designated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops. This creates a neat first sc without a visible joining knot.
Spiral Rose
Step 1: With smaller hook and chosen rose color, ch 36.
Step 2: Working back along the chain, work 3 dc into the 4th chain from hook, then 3 dc into each remaining chain across. You will have a long ruffled strip.
Step 3: Roll the strip tightly from one end, with the ruffle facing outward. The tighter base of the roll forms the center bud. The looser outer coils form the outer petals.
Step 4: Thread a yarn needle with a tail and weave through the flat bottom of the rose, stitching the layers together as you go to secure the spiral shape. Fasten off and leave a long tail for attaching to the bag.
Leaf
With smaller hook and LC, ch 10.
Row 1: sc into 2nd ch from hook, hdc into next ch, dc into next 5 ch, hdc into next ch, sc into last ch. Working along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc into next ch, hdc into next ch, dc into next 5 ch, hdc into next ch, sc into last ch, sl st to first sc to close. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Each finished leaf is approximately 1.75 inches (4.5 cm) long.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
The bag is constructed in four phases: a flat oval base worked in single crochet, a mesh body worked in rounds, long shoulder straps worked in rows and seamed, and the floral appliques made separately and sewn on.
The base is worked as a flat oval, similar to the toe of a sock. This creates a rounded, self standing bottom.
The mesh body begins immediately after the base and is worked in joined rounds. Join each round with a sl st, then ch 1 to begin the next round. The chain 1 turning chain does NOT count as a stitch in any round.
Stitch counts listed at the end of each round reflect the number of sc posts, not including chains. For the mesh rounds, the number of sc posts equals the number of mesh units.
When working the oval base increases, markers are placed at each end of the oval to track the curved short ends. Move markers up each round.
All flowers and leaves are crocheted with the smaller hook for firmness. Do not worry if they feel slightly stiff. This helps them stand away from the bag surface as dimensional appliques.
Step by Step Crochet Instructions
Section 1: Flat Oval Base
The base is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join. Use a marker to track the start of each round.
Foundation chain: With MC and H/8 hook, ch 22.
Round 1: sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc into each of next 19 ch (20 sc across), work 3 sc into last ch (the far short end). Now rotate work and sc along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc into each of next 20 ch, work 2 sc into the same stitch as your very first sc (the near short end). Do not join. Pm in first st. (45 sc)
Round 2: 2 sc into first st, sc into next 20 sts, 2 sc into next st, 2 sc into next st, sc into next 20 sts, 2 sc into last st. (49 sc)
Round 3: 2 sc into first st, sc into next 21 sts, (2 sc into next st) 3 times, sc into next 21 sts, (2 sc into next st) 2 times. (55 sc)
Round 4: 2 sc into first st, sc into next 22 sts, (2 sc into next st) 4 times, sc into next 22 sts, (2 sc into next st) 3 times. (63 sc)
Round 5: sc into first st, sc into next 24 sts, (2 sc into next st) 4 times, sc into next 24 sts, (2 sc into next st) 4 times, sc into last st. (71 sc)
Round 6: sc into first st, sc into next 26 sts, (2 sc into next st) 4 times, sc into next 26 sts, (2 sc into next st) 3 times, sc into last st. (78 sc)
Round 7: sc evenly around without increasing. (78 sc)
The oval base should measure approximately 10 inches long by 4.5 inches wide (25.5 cm by 11.5 cm) after Round 7. Sl st into the next stitch to prepare for the body. Do not fasten off.
Checkpoint: Your oval base should be firm and flat, with no cupping or buckling. If it cups, your tension is too tight. Go up half a hook size. If it ruffles and will not lie flat, your tension is too loose. Go down half a hook size.
Section 2: Mesh Body
The mesh pattern requires a stitch count divisible by 3. The base has 78 sc. 78 divided by 3 equals 26 repeat units. This is correct and no adjustment is needed.
Round 1 (Mesh Setup Round): Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc into same st as sl st, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, (sc into next st, ch 2, sk next 2 sts) around, sl st to first sc. (26 sc posts; 26 ch-2 spaces)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc into same sc, ch 2, (sc into next sc, ch 2) around, sl st to first sc. (26 sc posts; 26 ch-2 spaces)
Rounds 3 through 20: Rep Round 2. Work these rounds without any shaping. The mesh sides will grow straight up. (26 sc posts; 26 ch-2 spaces each round)
Checkpoint: After Round 20 of the mesh body, the bag from base to current round should measure approximately 10 inches (25.5 cm) in total height.
Rounds 21 and 22 (Transition Decrease Rounds, optional for a slightly narrower opening):
If you prefer a more defined taper, work as follows. Skip these rounds and go directly to Round 23 if you want a straight sided bag.
Round 21: Ch 1, sc into same sc, ch 2, (sc into next sc, ch 2) 11 times, sc2tog over the next sc and the sc after the next ch-2 space (inserting hook into the sc, skipping the ch-2 sp, inserting hook into the following sc), ch 2, (sc into next sc, ch 2) 12 times, sc2tog as before, ch 2, sl st to first sc. (24 sc posts; 24 ch-2 spaces)
Round 22: Ch 1, sc into same sc, ch 2, (sc into next sc, ch 2) around, sl st to first sc. (24 sc posts; 24 ch-2 spaces)
If you skipped Rounds 21 and 22, continue with 26 sc posts into Round 23.
Round 23 (Top Reinforcement Round): Ch 1. Working into both the sc posts and ch-2 spaces of the previous mesh round, sc into each sc post and 2 sc into each ch-2 space around. Sl st to first sc. (78 sc if coming from 26-post mesh; 72 sc if coming from 24-post mesh after the taper)
The pattern is written for the 78 sc version from this point. If you worked the taper, adjust stitch counts proportionally.
Round 24 (Top Edge): Ch 1, sc into each sc around, sl st to first sc. (78 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch tail for weaving in. The top edge should feel notably firmer than the mesh body.
Checkpoint: The bag body from base bottom to top edge should measure approximately 13 inches (33 cm) tall and approximately 14 inches (35.5 cm) wide when laid flat.
Section 3: Shoulder Straps (Make 2)
Each strap is a long sc rectangle folded lengthwise and seamed for durability and thickness. The finished strap is approximately 0.75 inch (2 cm) wide and 24 inches (61 cm) long before attachment.
With MC and H/8 hook, ch 90.
Row 1: sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc into each ch across. Turn. (89 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc into each sc across. Turn. (89 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc into each sc across. Turn. (89 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc into each sc across. Do not turn. Fasten off, leaving a 24 inch tail. (89 sc)
Fold the strap in half lengthwise so the two long edges meet. Using the long tail, whipstitch the two long edges together firmly. The strap should now be a stiff doubled cord approximately 0.75 inch wide.
Make the second strap in the same way.
Strap attachment: Position one strap on the front of the bag, aligning one end with the top edge approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) in from the left side edge and the other end approximately 3 inches in from the right side edge. The strap arcs up from both attachment points. Each strap end should overlap the top edge by approximately 1.5 inches (4 cm), folded to the inside. Using MC and a yarn needle, sew each strap end securely to the inside top edge of the bag with a box stitch. Sew a rectangle of stitches, then sew an X across the rectangle for maximum strength. Repeat for the second strap on the back of the bag, positioning the ends to mirror the front strap exactly.
Checkpoint: Once both straps are attached, try the bag on your shoulder. The base of the bag should hang approximately 10 to 12 inches (25.5 to 30.5 cm) below your shoulder. Adjust strap length before sewing if needed by working fewer or more foundation chains.
Section 4: Floral Appliques
Rose Quantity and Colors:
Each rose is worked following the Spiral Rose special stitch instruction above.
Leaf Quantity: Make 6 leaves in LC, following the Leaf special stitch instruction.
Finished rose diameter: approximately 1.75 to 2 inches (4.5 to 5 cm)
Finished leaf length: approximately 1.75 inches (4.5 cm)
Arranging and Sewing the Floral Cluster:
Place the bag on a flat surface with the front facing up. The floral cluster is positioned on the lower left quadrant of the front panel, roughly spanning from 3 inches (7.5 cm) up from the base to 8 inches (20 cm) up from the base, and from the center of the bag extending toward the left edge.
Lay out the roses and leaves before sewing to plan the arrangement. A suggested arrangement:
Thread a yarn needle with matching or invisible thread, or use thin yarn. Sew each rose to the bag by stitching through the flat base of the rose and catching the mesh bars of the bag underneath. Make several passes to ensure each rose is secure and will not flop forward. Sew leaves in the same manner, stitching along the center vein of the leaf to the bag surface.
Finishing and Blocking Your Crochet Tote
Weave in all yarn ends securely using a yarn needle, working the tails back and forth through multiple stitches so they cannot pull out.
Blocking: Fill the bag with plastic bags or crumpled paper to achieve its final shape. Lightly mist the entire bag with cool water using a spray bottle. Pat and shape the base so it sits flat and the sides are even. Gently pull the mesh panels so the mesh squares are even and square. Allow to dry completely in a well ventilated area, approximately 24 hours. Cotton will relax and the mesh will open up and become more defined after blocking.
Do not pin stretch the bag aggressively, as overstretching will distort the mesh squares and make the bag look uneven.
Optional lining: Cut a fabric lining piece using the blocked bag as a template. Ideally, use cotton canvas or quilting cotton. Sew the lining into a bag shape leaving the top open, fold the top seam allowance under, and slip stitch the lining to the inside of the bag along the top edge, just below the reinforced sc top border. This prevents small items from falling through the mesh.
Size Customization Tips
To make a smaller bag (approximately 11 inches wide by 10 inches tall): Begin the oval base with a ch 16 foundation and work 5 increase rounds. Work 14 mesh body rounds. All other steps remain the same.
To make a larger market tote (approximately 17 inches wide by 15 inches tall): Begin the oval base with a ch 28 foundation and work 8 increase rounds to 96 sc (divisible by 3). Work 25 mesh body rounds. Increase strap chain to ch 110.
To change strap length: Each 3 chains added to the foundation equals approximately 1 inch of strap length. Always check the drop height on your shoulder before seaming the strap.
Care Instructions
Machine wash on a gentle cycle in cool water. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry, as heat will cause cotton to shrink and may distort the mesh. Do not wring or twist. If the bag loses its shape after washing, re stuff with packing and allow to air dry in shape.
Store the bag stuffed with tissue paper or a soft item to help it hold its shape when not in use.
Final Thoughts on the Rose Garden Crochet Tote Pattern
This crochet tutorial walks you through every step of creating a beautiful, functional tote that looks far more complicated than it actually is. The mesh body works up quickly once you get into the rhythm, and those spiral roses are genuinely fun to make. I find myself making extras just to have on hand for other projects.
Whether you are looking for a handmade gift, a pretty market bag, or just a satisfying project to work on over a few evenings, this Rose Garden Tote delivers. The combination of practical mesh construction and romantic floral details makes it special without being precious.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern. I hope you enjoy every stitch of making your own Rose Garden Tote. If you make one, I would absolutely love to see it. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in our Facebook group.
If you loved this pattern, go ahead and pin it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you are ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make one. I always love hearing how your projects turn out and seeing the color combinations you choose.
