Sunny Yellow Ruffle Top & Bee Shorts Pattern

This is one of those projects that will have EVERYONE asking where you got it. I’m talking show-stopping, gift-worthy, "did you really make that?" levels of impressive. And here’s the best part: once you understand the construction, this adorable two-piece set works up faster than you’d expect. We’re talking about 12 to 18 hours total for a complete outfit that looks like it belongs in a boutique window. If you’ve been wanting to make something truly special for a little one in your life, this is it.

Sunny Yellow Ruffle Top & Bee Shorts Pattern

The sunny yellow ruffle top features four cascading tiers of scallop-edged ruffles that fan out beautifully, paired with the sweetest white crochet shorts decorated with handmade bumble bee appliques. The combination of bright lemon yellow and crisp white cotton creates a summer-ready look that photographs like a dream. This set is sized for 12 to 18 months, making it perfect for first birthday photos, family gatherings, or just everyday cuteness.

I designed this pattern to be approachable for intermediate crocheters who want to level up their skills. You’ll practice working flat panels, seaming, creating ruffles from anchor rows, working in the round, and making three-dimensional appliques. It sounds like a lot, but I’ll walk you through every single step.

Why This Crochet Pattern Works So Well

The genius of this design is in the construction method. Instead of trying to attach ruffles after the fact, you create "anchor rows" as you work the main body. These anchor rows are worked in back loop only (BLO), which means working your single crochet stitches through only the back loop instead of both loops. This leaves the front loops free and waiting for your ruffles to be attached directly into them later.

The result? Ruffles that are securely attached, perfectly spaced, and cascade naturally without any fussy sewing or gathering. It’s one of those techniques that seems complicated until you actually do it, and then you wonder why you ever did ruffles any other way.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you start, gather everything so you’re not hunting for supplies mid-project.

Yarn Requirements:

  • Yarn A: Bright lemon yellow 100 percent cotton yarn, DK weight (CYCA 3 Light), approximately 280 yards / 256 meters
  • Yarn B: Bright white 100 percent cotton yarn, DK weight (CYCA 3 Light), approximately 220 yards / 201 meters
  • Yarn C: Black 100 percent cotton yarn, DK weight or sport weight, approximately 15 yards / 14 meters (for bee stripes and details)
  • Optional: Small amount of white yarn for bee wings
  • Recommended Yarn Brands:

    Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Lemon and White works beautifully for this project. It has excellent stitch definition and a slight sheen from the mercerization process. Paintbox Yarns Simply DK in Banana Cream and Paper White is a budget-friendly alternative. Drops Safran in Yellow and Off-White gives a softer drape if you prefer more fluid ruffles.

    Important Note: Stick with 100 percent cotton or cotton-blend yarn. Acrylic won’t give the ruffles the structure they need to hold their shape and fan outward properly.

    Hook:

    US Size E-4 / 3.5 mm crochet hook, or whatever size you need to match gauge

    Notions:

  • Stitch markers (at least 6)
  • Yarn needle
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape
  • Straight pins for blocking
  • Optional: 1/4 inch elastic, approximately 16 inches / 41 cm long for shorts waistband
  • Gauge (Don’t Skip This)

    18 single crochet stitches and 20 rows equal 4 inches / 10 cm worked flat in single crochet using US E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, after blocking.

    I know gauge swatches aren’t the fun part, but this is a fitted garment. Even half a stitch difference per inch will change the finished chest circumference by more than an inch. Make a swatch: chain 22, work single crochet across for 24 rows, block it, then measure the center 4 inches in both directions.

    Finished Measurements

  • Top chest circumference: approximately 18 inches / 46 cm
  • Top length (underarm to hem ruffle): approximately 7 inches / 18 cm
  • Shorts waist circumference (unstretched): approximately 14 inches / 36 cm with stretch to fit up to 18 inches / 46 cm
  • Shorts length (waist to hem): approximately 6 inches / 15 cm
  • Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions

    Let me define every stitch you’ll encounter so there’s no confusion.

  • ch: chain
  • sc: single crochet (insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops)
  • dc: double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
  • sl st: slip stitch (insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion)
  • BLO: back loop only (work into only the back loop of the stitch, leaving the front loop unworked)
  • sc2tog: single crochet two together, a decrease (insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook in following stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops)
  • MR: magic ring (an adjustable loop that pulls closed after working the first round)
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • RS: right side
  • WS: wrong side
  • Special Stitches Explained

    Scallop Shell Stitch: This creates the beautiful wavy edge on each ruffle tier. Skip 2 stitches, work 5 double crochet into the next stitch (this creates the "shell" that fans out), skip 2 stitches, then anchor with a single crochet. One complete repeat uses 6 stitches total.

    Ruffle Anchor Row: When you see instructions to work in BLO, you’re creating a ridge on the right side while leaving the front loops free. Those front loops become the attachment point for your ruffles later.

    Part One: Sunny Yellow Ruffle Top Instructions

    Top Back Panel

    The back panel is worked flat with BLO anchor rows at regular intervals. The ruffles only appear on the front, so these anchor rows on the back won’t be used, but working them keeps both panels identical for easy seaming.

    With Yarn A and hook E-4, chain 42.

    Foundation Row (WS): Single crochet in the 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. Turn. (41 sc)

    Row 1 (RS): Chain 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (41 sc)

    Row 2 (WS): Chain 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (41 sc)

    Row 3 (RS): Chain 1, sc in BLO of each st across. Turn. (41 sc) — ANCHOR ROW 1

    Row 4 (WS): Chain 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (41 sc)

    Row 5 (RS): Chain 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (41 sc)

    Row 6 (WS): Chain 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (41 sc)

    Row 7 (RS): Chain 1, sc in BLO of each st across. Turn. (41 sc) — ANCHOR ROW 2

    Row 8 (WS): Chain 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (41 sc)

    Row 9 (RS): Chain 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (41 sc)

    Row 10 (WS): Chain 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (41 sc)

    Row 11 (RS): Chain 1, sc in BLO of each st across. Turn. (41 sc) — ANCHOR ROW 3

    Row 12 (WS): Chain 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (41 sc)

    Row 13 (RS): Chain 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (41 sc)

    Row 14 (WS): Chain 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (41 sc)

    Row 15 (RS): Chain 1, sc in BLO of each st across. Turn. (41 sc) — ANCHOR ROW 4

    Row 16 (WS): Chain 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (41 sc)

    Row 17 (RS): Chain 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (41 sc)

    Row 18 (WS): Chain 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (41 sc)

    Fasten off. Back panel complete.

    Checkpoint: Your back panel should measure approximately 9 inches / 23 cm wide and 3.75 inches / 9.5 cm tall.

    Top Front Panel

    Work exactly as written for the Back Panel, including all four BLO anchor rows at Rows 3, 7, 11, and 15. Do NOT fasten off after Row 18. You’ll use this working loop for seaming.

    Side Seaming

    Hold front and back panels together with right sides facing each other. Using the live loop from the front panel, work a slip stitch seam through both layers along one short side edge (the 18-row tall edges). Join the other side edge the same way. Leave top and bottom edges open. Turn the garment right side out.

    You now have a tube approximately 18 inches / 46 cm in circumference.

    Top Edge Finishing

    With RS facing and Yarn A, join yarn at the top right corner of the back panel.

    Neckline Round 1: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch across the back panel top edge (41 sc), then 1 sc in each stitch across the front panel top edge (41 sc). Sl st to join. (82 sc)

    Neckline Round 2: Chain 1, sc in each st. Sl st to join. (82 sc)

    Neckline Round 3: Chain 1, sc in each st. Sl st to join. (82 sc)

    Fasten off.

    Straps

    The top has double-strand spaghetti straps positioned approximately 6 stitches in from each side seam.

    Strap 1 (Front Right): With Yarn A, join yarn approximately 6 stitches in from the right side seam along the neckline. Chain 60. Fasten off leaving a 12-inch / 30 cm tail. Attach the other end to the corresponding position on the back panel. Sew securely with yarn needle.

    Strap 2 (Front Left): Join yarn approximately 6 stitches in from the left side seam on the front neckline. Chain 60. Attach to the corresponding back panel position. Sew securely.

    Tip: For a cleaner spaghetti strap, work it as a slip stitch cord. Chain 60, then working back along the chain, slip stitch into the back bump of each chain. This creates a firm, rounded cord.

    Ruffle Tiers

    Now for the fun part! The four ruffle tiers are worked on the RS of the FRONT PANEL ONLY, attaching into the free front loops left behind by each BLO anchor row.

    Hold the garment with the RS of the front panel facing you. Look for the ridges created by the BLO rows. The unused front loops are where you’ll attach each ruffle.

    RUFFLE TIER 1 (Attached to Anchor Row 1, closest to neckline)

    With RS facing, join Yarn A into the first free front loop at the right edge of Anchor Row 1.

    Ruffle Setup Row: Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc). Work 1 dc into the same loop. Work 2 dc into each front loop across. (82 dc)

    Ruffle Shell Row: Chain 1, turn. Sc in first st. (Skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st) 12 times. Skip 2 sts, 3 dc in last st.

    Fasten off.

    RUFFLE TIER 2 (Attached to Anchor Row 2)

    With RS facing, join Yarn A into the first free front loop at the right edge of Anchor Row 2.

    Ruffle Setup Row: Chain 3 (counts as dc). 1 dc in same loop. 2 dc in each front loop across. (82 dc)

    Ruffle Shell Row: Chain 1, turn. Sc in first st. (Skip 2, 5 dc in next, skip 2, sc in next) 12 times. Skip 2, 3 dc in last st.

    Fasten off.

    RUFFLE TIER 3 (Attached to Anchor Row 3)

    Repeat the same process for Anchor Row 3.

    Fasten off.

    RUFFLE TIER 4 (Attached to Anchor Row 4, lowest tier near hem)

    Repeat the same process for Anchor Row 4.

    Fasten off.

    Bottom Hem Edging of Top

    With RS facing, join Yarn A at the bottom of the top body (the foundation row edge).

    Hem Pickup Round: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around, adding 1 sc at each side seam for a total of 84 sc. Sl st to join. (84 sc)

    Hem Scallop Round: Chain 1. (Skip 2, 5 dc in next, skip 2, sc in next) 14 times. Sl st to join.

    Fasten off. Top is complete!

    Part Two: Bee Shorts Instructions

    Waistband

    With Yarn B and hook E-4, chain 64. Sl st to join, being careful not to twist. (64 ch)

    Waistband Rounds 1-6: Chain 1. Sc in each st around. Sl st to join. (64 sc)

    Shorts Body

    Continue with Yarn B.

    Rounds 7-20: Chain 1. Sc in each st around. Sl st to join. (64 sc)

    Checkpoint: The shorts body should measure approximately 4 inches / 10 cm tall at this point.

    Crotch Division

    At the end of Round 20, chain 4. Skip the next 32 stitches. Sl st into the 33rd stitch to join the chain to the second half.

    First Leg

    Leg Round 1: Chain 1. Sc in each of the 32 sts around the first leg opening, then sc in each of the 4 chain sts of the bridge. Sl st to join. (36 sc)

    Leg Rounds 2-4: Chain 1. Sc in each st around. Sl st to join. (36 sc)

    Leg Scallop Round: (Skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st) 6 times. Sl st to join.

    Fasten off.

    Second Leg

    Rejoin Yarn B to the first skipped stitch at the crotch division.

    Leg Round 1: Chain 1. Sc in each of the 32 skipped sts, then sc in each of the 4 chain sts of the bridge (working into the opposite side). Sl st to join. (36 sc)

    Leg Rounds 2-4: Chain 1. Sc in each st around. Sl st to join. (36 sc)

    Leg Scallop Round: (Skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st) 6 times. Sl st to join.

    Fasten off.

    Part Three: Bumble Bee Appliques

    Make 3 bees total.

    Bee Body

    With Yarn C (black) and hook E-4, make a magic ring.

    Round 1: Ch 1, 6 sc in MR. Pull ring closed. Do not join. Place stitch marker. (6 sc)

    Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sc)

    Round 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around. (18 sc)

    Round 4: Sc in each st around. (18 sc)

    Switch to Yarn A (yellow).

    Round 5: Sc in each st around. (18 sc)

    Switch to Yarn C.

    Round 6: Sc in each st around. (18 sc)

    Switch to Yarn A.

    Round 7: Sc in each st around. (18 sc)

    Switch to Yarn C.

    Round 8: (Sc in next st, sc2tog) around. (12 sc)

    Stuff lightly with scrap yarn or a tiny bit of fiberfill.

    Round 9: Sc2tog around. (6 sc)

    Sl st to next st. Fasten off leaving a 12-inch / 30 cm tail. Thread tail through remaining 6 loops and pull closed.

    Bee Head

    With Yarn C, make a magic ring. 6 sc in MR. Pull closed. Sl st to join. Fasten off leaving a tail. Sew to one end of the bee body.

    Bee Wings (Make 2 per bee, 6 total)

    Using white yarn: Chain 6. Work 4 dc in the 4th chain from hook. Work 4 dc into the same chain (8 dc total). Skip 1 chain. Sl st in last chain. Fasten off leaving a sewing tail.

    Antennae

    Using Yarn C, thread a needle and create two short stitches from the top of the head, tying a small knot at each tip for a ball effect.

    Assembling and Attaching Bees

    Sew wings to the top of each bee body, angling upward slightly. Attach antennae to the head. Arrange 3 bees on the front of the shorts and sew securely with yarn needle.

    Finishing and Blocking

    Weave in all ends on both pieces. Block the top and shorts according to your yarn’s care instructions. Cotton generally blocks well with steam or wet blocking. Pin out the ruffles to help them fan beautifully.

    If using elastic in the waistband, thread it through the waistband rounds now, overlap the ends by 1 inch, and sew securely.

    Size Customization Tips

    To size up or down, adjust your starting chain count in multiples of 6 (for the scallop pattern to work evenly). Add or subtract 6 chains at a time for the top panels and shorts body. Adjust strap length by adding or subtracting chains as needed.

    Sunny Yellow Ruffle Top & Bee Shorts Pattern

    You Did It!

    This sunny yellow ruffle top and bee shorts set is the kind of project that makes all those hours of practice worth it. The cascading ruffles, the sweet bumble bee details, the crisp summer colors. It all comes together into something genuinely special.

    Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next project. I hope you love making it as much as I loved designing it. If you complete this set, I would absolutely love to see your finished work! Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group. Seeing your creations is the best part of my day.

    If this pattern made your heart happy, go ahead and save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you’re ready to start. And if you make this adorable set, drop a comment below and let me know how it turned out. I read every single one!

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