These baby overalls are a classic. Grey romper, cute panda face, adjustable straps. You get a textured single crochet body worked flat in two leg panels, joined at the crotch, then continued up to form a bib front and plain back yoke. The panda applique is worked separately in the round and sewn on at the end. If you can single crochet and seam, you can make these.
The construction might sound complicated, but I promise it comes together logically. You work two identical leg panels from the bottom up, seam them, join them with a short chain bridge, then keep going straight up into the body and bib. The straps button on. The panda face is basically just circles.
Finished size fits 3 to 6 months with notes for sizing up or down. Total time runs about 8 to 12 hours depending on your pace.
Why These Panda Overalls Work So Well
The grey yarn creates a clean canvas that makes the black and white panda face really pop. The ribbed cuffs at the leg bottoms add stretch and visual interest. The button closures on the straps make diaper changes easier for parents. And honestly, who can resist a baby in panda overalls?
This pattern uses single crochet (sc) throughout the main body, which gives you a dense, sturdy fabric perfect for baby wear. The ribbing sections use back loop only (blo) single crochet to create that stretchy, textured band you see at the cuffs and bib edge.
Materials You Will Need
Yarn:
Hooks:
Notions:
Yarn Suggestions:
Lion Brand Pound of Love in Oxford Grey, White, and Black works beautifully. It is machine washable and durable. Paintbox Yarns Simply DK at a slightly larger hook also gives lovely results. Choose something soft enough for baby skin and machine washable for practical parents.
Gauge
With US G-6 / 4.0 mm hook and MC:
16 stitches x 18 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in single crochet worked flat
Gauge matters here because this is a fitted garment. Make a 5-inch swatch, block it, measure the center 4 inches. Adjust your hook size if needed.
Finished Measurements
Size: 3 to 6 months
Abbreviations
Let me define every abbreviation before we start. Knowing these makes the pattern instructions much easier to follow.
Special Stitches Explained
Ribbing Stitch
This creates the stretchy bands at the cuffs and bib edge. Work single crochet in the back loop only on every row. This makes the fabric stretchy and creates visible horizontal ridges.
Magic Ring
Make a loop with the yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail. Insert your hook through the loop, pull up a working loop, chain 1. Work the required number of stitches into the ring. Pull the tail to close the ring tightly. This gives you a tight center with no hole.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
1. The overalls are worked flat in two identical leg panels from the bottom cuff upward. The panels are seamed at the inner leg, then joined to work the body and bib as one flat piece.
2. Chain 1 at the beginning of every row counts as a turning chain only and is never counted as a stitch.
3. Work all single crochet rows under both loops of each stitch unless blo is specified.
4. Safety eyes are not recommended for infants under 3 years. Embroider the eyes with black yarn using a satin stitch circle instead.
5. The right side of the fabric is the side facing outward with the neatest stitch appearance.
Crochet Pattern Instructions
Section 1: Leg Panels (Make 2 Identical)
Cuff Ribbing
Using MC and US E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, ch 7.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
Rows 2 through 18: Sc in blo of each st across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
After row 18, you have a ribbing strip 18 rows long. Fold it so the short ends meet and sl st the short ends together to form a cuff ring. Do not fasten off. Rotate the ring 90 degrees so the long edge faces up.
Leg Body
Switch to US G-6 / 4.0 mm hook.
Round 1 (joining round): Working along the long edge of the cuff ribbing, pick up and sc evenly around the top edge of the ribbing ring. You will work 1 sc per row end along the ribbing. (18 sc) Join with sl st to first sc to close the round.
Note: The leg is worked flat from here. Flatten the tube and work back and forth across the 18 stitches.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each of 18 sts across. Ch 1, turn. (18 sc)
Row 2: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (18 sc)
Row 3: Inc in first st, sc to last st, inc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (20 sc)
Row 4: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (20 sc)
Row 5: Inc in first st, sc to last st, inc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (22 sc)
Rows 6 through 16: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (22 sc)
After row 16, the leg panel should measure approximately 5 inches / 12.5 cm from the top of the cuff ribbing. Fasten off the first panel. Do not fasten off the second panel.
Checkpoint: Each completed leg panel including cuff ribbing should measure approximately 7 inches / 18 cm total. The working width at the top of the leg is 22 stitches across.
Section 2: Joining the Legs and Working the Body
With the second leg panel still attached to yarn and RS facing:
Joining Row: Ch 1, sc across the 22 sts of the second panel, ch 2, then sc across all 22 sts of the first panel. Ch 1, turn. (22 + 2 ch + 22 = 46 sts total)
Row 1 of body: Sc in each of 22 sts, sc in each of 2 ch, sc in each of 22 sts. Ch 1, turn. (46 sc)
Rows 2 through 6: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (46 sc)
After row 6, the body above the crotch join should measure approximately 1.5 inches / 4 cm.
Section 3: Front Bib
The center 16 stitches become the front bib.
Row 1 of bib: With RS facing, count to stitch 16 from the right edge. Skip the first 15 sts, re-attach yarn in stitch 16. Sc in each of the next 16 sts. Ch 1, turn. (16 sc)
Rows 2 through 14: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (16 sc)
Bib Top Edge Ribbing
Switch to US E-4 / 3.5 mm hook.
Row 15: Working in blo, sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (16 sc)
Row 16: Working in blo, sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (16 sc)
Row 17: Working in blo, sc in each st across. Fasten off. (16 sc)
Checkpoint: The front bib from the crotch join to the top of the ribbed edge should measure approximately 4 inches / 10 cm.
Section 4: Back Yoke
Re-attach MC to the right edge of the 46-stitch body row (at stitch 1). Sc across the first 15 sts. Ch 1, turn. Fasten off. Repeat for the other 15-st group. Then seam the two 15-stitch back side panels together with the bib using mattress stitch along both side edges.
Back Top Edge Ribbing
Re-attach MC at the back top right edge across the back 30 stitches.
Row 1: Switch to US E-4 / 3.5 mm hook. Working in blo, sc in each of 30 sts across. Ch 1, turn. (30 sc)
Row 2: Sc in blo of each st across. Ch 1, turn. (30 sc)
Row 3: Sc in blo of each st across. Fasten off. (30 sc)
Section 5: Shoulder Straps (Make 2)
Using MC and US G-6 / 4.0 mm hook, ch 37.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (36 sc)
Row 2: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (36 sc)
Row 3: Sc in each st across. Fasten off. (36 sc)
Each strap measures approximately 9 inches / 23 cm long.
Buttonhole End
Re-attach yarn at one short end of the strap.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in next st. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Sc in first sc, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in last sc. Fasten off. (4 sc)
The buttonhole end attaches to the back of the garment. Sew buttons to front bib top corners and to back yoke ribbing 2 inches / 5 cm in from each outer edge.
Section 6: Side Seams
Lay the garment flat. Using MC and a tapestry needle, seam the left and right side edges of the body from the underarm down to the crotch join using mattress stitch. Leave the crotch area open at the join row so the garment can be put on.
Section 7: Panda Face Applique
Main Face Circle (CA, White)
Using CA and US G-6 / 4.0 mm hook, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, 6 sc in ring. Pull ring closed. Join with sl st. (6 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around. Join with sl st. (12 sc)
Round 3: Ch 1, (sc in next st, inc in next st) 6 times. Join with sl st. (18 sc)
Round 4: Ch 1, (sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. Join with sl st. (24 sc)
Round 5: Ch 1, (sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. Join with sl st. (30 sc)
Round 6: Ch 1, (sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. Join with sl st. (36 sc)
Round 7: Ch 1, (sc in next 5 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. Join with sl st. (42 sc)
Fasten off CA, leaving a long tail for sewing. The completed circle measures approximately 3.5 inches / 9 cm in diameter.
Ears (CB, Black, Make 2)
Using CB and US G-6 / 4.0 mm hook, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, 6 sc in ring. Pull ring closed. Join with sl st. (6 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around. Join with sl st. (12 sc)
Fasten off CB, leaving a long tail. Each ear measures approximately 1 inch / 2.5 cm in diameter.
Eye Patches (CB, Black, Make 2)
Using CB and US G-6 / 4.0 mm hook, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, 6 sc in ring. Pull ring closed. Join with sl st. (6 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, (sc in next st, inc in next st) 3 times. Join with sl st. (9 sc)
Fasten off CB, leaving a long tail. Each eye patch is approximately 3/4 inch / 2 cm across.
Panda Face Assembly
Step 1: Position the two ear circles at the top of the white face circle, approximately at the 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock positions, half hidden behind the face. Sew in place with CB tails.
Step 2: Position the two black eye patches on the upper center of the face, about 1/2 inch / 1.5 cm apart. Sew in place.
Step 3: If using safety eyes, insert them through the center of each eye patch and through the white face circle, then secure the backings. If embroidering, use black thread to satin stitch a 1/4-inch / 6 mm circle in the center of each eye patch.
Step 4: Using black embroidery thread or CB, embroider a small triangle nose centered on the lower third of the face. Embroider a short curved line downward from the nose tip and two short lines curving upward to form a smile.
Step 5: Center the completed panda applique on the bib front with the top of the face about 1/4 inch / 6 mm below the bib ribbing edge. Pin in place. Using CA and a tapestry needle, whip stitch around the entire outer edge to attach it firmly.
Size Customization Tips
For Newborn: Reduce leg panel to 16 stitches at cuff and work only 12 rows before joining. Reduce bib to 14 stitches and work 12 bib rows. Shorten straps to 32 chains.
For 6 to 12 months: Increase cuff ribbing to 22 rows. Pick up 22 stitches for leg body. Add increase rows at rows 3, 5, and 7 to reach 28 stitches at leg top. Work 18 body rows before dividing. Bib: 18 stitches wide, 16 rows tall. Straps: ch 41.
For 12 to 18 months: Increase cuff ribbing to 24 rows. Pick up 24 stitches for leg body. Work increases to reach 30 stitches at leg top. Work 20 body rows before dividing. Bib: 20 stitches wide, 18 rows tall. Straps: ch 45.
Finishing and Blocking
Weave in all yarn ends securely on the wrong side, threading each tail through at least 1 inch of stitching in two directions before trimming.
Wet Blocking: Soak the finished overalls in cool water for 15 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water without wringing. Lay flat on a blocking board or clean towel. Shape to measurements, pin the leg cuffs and bib edge flat, and allow to dry completely.
Sew buttons to front bib top corners and to back yoke ribbing using doubled thread. Consider a backing button on the inside for very young infants.
Care Instructions
Machine wash on gentle cycle in cold water. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry. Store folded rather than hung to prevent stretching.
You Did It!
Thank you so much for choosing this panda bear baby overalls pattern. I really hope you enjoy making these as much as I enjoyed designing them. There is something incredibly satisfying about seeing those little leg panels come together, and that panda face just brings the whole thing to life.
If you make a pair, I would absolutely love to see them! Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group. Seeing your finished projects is honestly the best part of my day.
Save this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start stitching. And if you make these adorable overalls, please drop a comment below. I would love to hear how they turned out and see which color combinations you chose!
