Let me guess. You saw this adorable sunflower romper and thought, "That looks way too complicated for me." I get it. Between the dimensional petals, the bubble shaping, and the multiple construction steps, this project seems intimidating at first glance.
Here is the truth. If you can single crochet and count stitches, you can absolutely make this romper. The entire body uses just one stitch worked through the back loop only. The sunflower petals are simple flat pieces you make one at a time. And the bubble shape happens automatically when you follow the increase and decrease schedule.
Whether you are a confident beginner ready to level up or an experienced crocheter looking for your next baby shower gift, this crochet pattern breaks everything down into manageable chunks. I will walk you through each section step by step, explain every technique, and give you checkpoints along the way so you always know you are on track.
Why This Sunflower Baby Romper Pattern Works
This romper combines practicality with personality in the best possible way. The ribbed texture created by working in the back loop gives the fabric stretch and recovery, perfect for a wiggly baby. The bubble silhouette looks absolutely precious in photos while allowing room for diapers and movement. And that sunflower collar? It transforms a simple romper into a statement piece.
The construction is smarter than it looks. You work the leg openings flat, join them at the crotch, then work the body in the round. This means no seaming up the sides. The bodice and straps are worked flat and attached with buttons, making the romper adjustable and easy to get on and off.
Three wooden buttons at the crotch make diaper changes a breeze. Two buttons at each shoulder let you adjust the strap length as baby grows. It is thoughtful design disguised as a cute outfit.
Skill Level
This is an intermediate level crochet pattern. The individual techniques are beginner friendly, but you will be managing multiple components, working both flat and in the round, and assembling pieces at the end.
You should be comfortable with single crochet, counting stitches accurately, increasing and decreasing, and working in the back loop only. If you have completed at least one or two garments before, you are ready for this project.
Finished Measurements
This pattern is written for size 3 to 6 months with the following dimensions:
I will include sizing tips at the end if you need to go smaller or larger.
Materials Needed
Yarn
Main Color (MC): 350 to 400 yards (320 to 365 meters) of worsted weight yarn in golden mustard yellow
Color A: approximately 40 yards (37 meters) in bright yellow for outer petals
Color B: approximately 20 yards (18 meters) in deep golden amber for inner petals
Color C: approximately 15 yards (14 meters) in dark brown for sunflower center
All yarns should be worsted weight, category 4. Look for baby safe, machine washable options.
Yarn Recommendations
Lion Brand Pound of Love in Buttercup works beautifully for the main color. It is affordable, machine washable, and holds its shape well.
Paintbox Yarns Simply DK in Mustard Yellow is another excellent choice. Work it at a slightly tighter gauge for a firmer fabric.
Cascade 220 Superwash in Lemon Curry is perfect if you want something luxuriously soft. It is machine washable despite being merino wool.
Hooks
The smaller hook keeps the petals firm and dimensional.
Notions
Gauge
Using MC and G-6 hook, working back loop only single crochet in the round:
18 stitches x 22 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)
Gauge matters for garments. A romper that is even half an inch off will fit a completely different size baby. Work a swatch at least 5 inches square, wash and block it the way you plan to care for the finished romper, then measure before you start.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
blo = back loop only. Instead of inserting your hook under both loops at the top of the stitch, insert it under just the back loop. This creates the ribbed texture.
ch = chain
ch-sp = chain space
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
inc = increase. Work 2 single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
MC = main color
pm = place marker
rnd = round
RS = right side
sc = single crochet. Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops.
sc2tog = single crochet two together (decrease). Insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook in following stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
yo = yarn over
Special Stitches
Ribbed Single Crochet (Rsc)
This is single crochet worked through the back loop only. Insert your hook under just the back loop of the indicated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops. This creates raised vertical ribs on your fabric.
Sunflower Petal (Large)
Foundation: chain 9.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (8 sc)
Row 2: ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st. (10 sc)
Row 3: ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st. (12 sc)
Row 4: ch 1, turn. sc in each st across. (12 sc)
Row 5: ch 1, turn. sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (10 sc)
Row 6: ch 1, turn. sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (8 sc)
Row 7: ch 1, turn. sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (6 sc)
Row 8: ch 1, turn. sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (4 sc)
Row 9: ch 1, turn. (sc2tog) twice. (2 sc)
Row 10: ch 1, turn. sc2tog. (1 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a tail for seaming. Each finished petal measures approximately 2 inches (5 cm) long and 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide.
Sunflower Center
Rnd 1: With Color C and smaller hook, magic ring, 6 sc in ring. (6 sc) Pull ring closed.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (30 sc)
Sl st to first st to join. Fasten off. This creates a flat disc approximately 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
The body is worked in joined rounds, not spiral rounds. At the end of each round, slip stitch to the first stitch, then chain 1 before starting the next round. The chain 1 does not count as a stitch.
The ribbed texture comes from working in the back loop only throughout the body section.
Use stitch markers at the beginning of each round and at both side seam positions. This keeps your shaping symmetrical.
The bubble shape happens naturally through the increase and decrease schedule. Trust the numbers.
Construction order: leg openings, join legs to form body, work body in the round with shaping, work bodice flat, work straps flat, make sunflower components, assemble everything.
Pattern Instructions
Leg Openings (Make 2)
Each leg opening is worked flat.
Right Leg:
Foundation chain: With MC and G hook, ch 41.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (40 sc)
Rows 2 through 5: Sc in blo of each st across. Ch 1, turn. (40 sc each row)
After Row 5, do not fasten off. Set aside with the working loop held on a stitch marker.
Left Leg:
Work exactly as Right Leg through Row 5. Do not fasten off. (40 sc)
Checkpoint: Each leg panel should measure approximately 4.5 inches (11.5 cm) wide and 1 inch (2.5 cm) tall.
Join Legs and Begin Body
With the left leg still on your hook and RS facing, ch 6 (this bridges the crotch), then sl st to the first stitch of the right leg to join.
Join Round: Working in blo, sc in each of the 40 sts of the right leg, sc in each of the 6 crotch chain sts, sc in each of the 40 sts of the left leg, sc in each of the 6 sts on the other side of the crotch chain, sl st to first sc of round to join. (92 sc)
Place a marker at the join point. This is your side seam. Place a second marker at stitch 46 to mark the other side seam.
Lower Body (Bubble Increase Section)
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in blo of each st around, sl st to join. (92 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in blo of first 22 sts, 2 sc in blo of next st, sc in blo of next 45 sts, 2 sc in blo of next st, sc in blo of rem 23 sts, sl st to join. (94 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in blo of each st around, sl st to join. (94 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in blo of first 23 sts, 2 sc in blo of next st, sc in blo of next 46 sts, 2 sc in blo of next st, sc in blo of rem 23 sts, sl st to join. (96 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in blo of each st around, sl st to join. (96 sc)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in blo of first 23 sts, 2 sc in blo of next st, sc in blo of next 47 sts, 2 sc in blo of next st, sc in blo of rem 24 sts, sl st to join. (98 sc)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in blo of each st around, sl st to join. (98 sc)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in blo of first 24 sts, 2 sc in blo of next st, sc in blo of next 48 sts, 2 sc in blo of next st, sc in blo of rem 24 sts, sl st to join. (100 sc)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in blo of each st around, sl st to join. (100 sc)
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in blo of first 24 sts, 2 sc in blo of next st, sc in blo of next 49 sts, 2 sc in blo of next st, sc in blo of rem 25 sts, sl st to join. (102 sc)
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in blo of each st around, sl st to join. (102 sc)
Rnd 12: Ch 1, sc in blo of first 25 sts, 2 sc in blo of next st, sc in blo of next 50 sts, 2 sc in blo of next st, sc in blo of rem 25 sts, sl st to join. (104 sc)
Checkpoint: After Round 12, the body should measure approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) from the crotch join. This is the widest point of your bubble.
Upper Body (Bubble Decrease Section)
Rnd 13: Ch 1, sc in blo of each st around, sl st to join. (104 sc)
Rnd 14: Ch 1, sc2tog in blo, sc in blo of next 50 sts, sc2tog in blo, sc in blo of rem 50 sts, sl st to join. (102 sc)
Rnd 15: Ch 1, sc in blo of each st around, sl st to join. (102 sc)
Rnd 16: Ch 1, sc2tog in blo, sc in blo of next 49 sts, sc2tog in blo, sc in blo of rem 49 sts, sl st to join. (100 sc)
Rnd 17: Ch 1, sc in blo of each st around, sl st to join. (100 sc)
Rnd 18: Ch 1, sc2tog in blo, sc in blo of next 48 sts, sc2tog in blo, sc in blo of rem 48 sts, sl st to join. (98 sc)
Rnd 19: Ch 1, sc in blo of each st around, sl st to join. (98 sc)
Rnd 20: Ch 1, sc2tog in blo, sc in blo of next 47 sts, sc2tog in blo, sc in blo of rem 47 sts, sl st to join. (96 sc)
Rnd 21: Ch 1, sc in blo of each st around, sl st to join. (96 sc)
Rnd 22: Ch 1, sc2tog in blo, sc in blo of next 46 sts, sc2tog in blo, sc in blo of rem 46 sts, sl st to join. (94 sc)
Rnd 23: Ch 1, sc in blo of each st around, sl st to join. (94 sc)
Rnd 24: Ch 1, sc2tog in blo, sc in blo of next 45 sts, sc2tog in blo, sc in blo of rem 45 sts, sl st to join. (92 sc)
Rnd 25: Ch 1, sc2tog in blo, sc in blo of next 44 sts, sc2tog in blo, sc in blo of rem 44 sts, sl st to join. (90 sc)
Rnd 26: Ch 1, sc in blo of each st around, sl st to join. (90 sc)
Rnd 27: Ch 1, sc2tog in blo, sc in blo of next 43 sts, sc2tog in blo, sc in blo of rem 43 sts, sl st to join. (88 sc)
Rnd 28: Ch 1, sc in blo of each st around, sl st to join. (88 sc)
Checkpoint: The body should now measure approximately 6.5 inches (16.5 cm) from crotch to top. The bubble shaping is complete.
Front Bodice
Do not join at the end of Round 28. After the last sl st join, ch 1, then work across 44 sts for the front only.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in each of the next 44 sts. Ch 1, turn. (44 sc)
Row 2: Sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (42 sc)
Row 3: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (42 sc)
Row 4: Sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (40 sc)
Row 5: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (40 sc)
Row 6: Sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (38 sc)
Row 7: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (38 sc)
Row 8: Sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (36 sc)
Row 9: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (36 sc)
Row 10: Sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (34 sc)
Row 11: Sc in each st across. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. (34 sc)
Checkpoint: The front bodice should measure approximately 3.5 inches (9 cm) wide and 2 inches (5 cm) tall.
Back Bodice
Rejoin MC to the first of the remaining 44 sts on the opposite side of the body.
Work exactly as Front Bodice, Rows 1 through 11. Fasten off. (34 sc)
Straps (Make 2)
Foundation chain: With MC and G hook, ch 9.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
Rows 2 through 36: Sc in blo of each st across. Ch 1, turn. (8 sc each row)
After Row 36, work one round of sc edging around the entire strap: sc evenly along the long side, 3 sc in the corner, sc across the short end, 3 sc in corner, sc along the second long side, 3 sc in corner, sc across the top short end, 3 sc in corner, sl st to join. Fasten off.
Each strap should measure approximately 8 inches (20.5 cm) long and 1.75 inches (4.5 cm) wide.
Button Loops for Straps
At each end of each strap, rejoin MC at the corner of the short end. Ch 5, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st. Fasten off and weave in end.
Crotch Button Band
Rejoin MC to the bottom edge of the crotch join. Work 3 rows of sc across the bottom edge, working one button loop in Row 2 evenly spaced across. Each loop is formed by ch 3, sk 1 st, sc in next st. Make 3 loops total. Fasten off.
Sunflower Petals
Make 10 large petals in Color A using the Sunflower Petal instructions above.
Make 8 small petals in Color B. For small petals, begin with ch 7 instead of ch 9, and work through Row 8 only. On Row 8, simply sc2tog the last 2 sts and fasten off. Each small petal will be approximately 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) long.
Sunflower Center
Work the Sunflower Center as written in the Special Stitches section. Fasten off Color C. With Color A, work one round of sc around the edge of the center disc for a yellow border. Sl st to join, fasten off.
Assembly
Step 1: Attach straps. Position the two straps on the front bodice, one at each side, approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) in from each edge. Sew wooden buttons through the bodice at the front, aligning with the strap button loops. Attach the back ends of the straps to the back bodice with two more buttons.
Step 2: Arrange sunflower petals. Lay the front bodice flat with RS up. The sunflower collar spans the entire top edge. Arrange the 10 large Color A petals in a ring along the neckline with tips pointing outward. Space them evenly. Behind and between the large petals, tuck the 8 smaller Color B petals so they peek out. Pin all petals before sewing.
Step 3: Sew petals. Using a yarn needle and matching yarn, sew each petal securely at its base to the top rows of the bodice. Leave the petal tips free.
Step 4: Attach sunflower center. Center the disc over the top front bodice, covering the base ends of all petals. Sew around the edge of the disc, catching both the disc edge and the bodice fabric underneath.
Step 5: Attach crotch buttons. Sew 3 wooden buttons to the inside bottom band of the crotch opening, aligning with the 3 button loops.
Step 6: Weave in all ends.
Size Customization
For 6 to 12 months: Add 6 to 8 stitches to each leg foundation chain. Work 2 additional increase rounds and 2 additional decrease rounds in the body. Add 4 rows to the bodice and 4 rows to each strap.
For 12 to 18 months: Add 12 stitches to each leg foundation chain. Work 4 additional increase and decrease rounds. Add 6 rows to the bodice and 8 rows to each strap.
For newborn to 3 months: Reduce each leg foundation chain by 4 stitches. Remove 2 increase and 2 decrease rounds. Remove 2 rows from the bodice.
Finishing and Care
Wet block the finished romper by soaking in cool water with a drop of wool wash. Press out water gently without wringing. Lay flat and shape the bubble silhouette. Allow to dry completely.
Steam the petals lightly by holding an iron 1 inch away. Do not touch the iron directly to the fabric.
Care instructions: Machine wash cold on gentle in a mesh bag. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry. Store folded, not hung, to prevent strap stretching.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern. I hope you love making this sweet sunflower romper as much as I loved designing it. If you give it a try, I would absolutely love to see your finished piece. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group.
If this pattern is calling to you, go ahead and pin it to your crochet board on Pinterest so you can find it when you are ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make one. I read every single one and they truly make my day!
