Go dig into your yarn stash right now. You know that sport weight cotton you’ve been saving for something special? This is the project. This Blue Daisy Granny Square Table Runner combines fifteen cheerful flower motifs into a stunning centerpiece with an elegant lace border that gently rounds into an oval shape at the ends.
The construction here is genuinely interesting. You’ll work individual daisy squares from the center out, creating dimensional petal clusters that pop beautifully against the mint green and gray framing. Then everything comes together with a flat join method that creates those satisfying visible grid lines.
I’ll be honest about the difficulty level. This is an intermediate project. You need to be comfortable working in the round, understand granny square construction, and be ready to learn a special petal cluster stitch. But if you’ve made a few granny squares before and want to level up, this is your pattern.
Why This Table Runner Works So Well
The color combination in this design is simply perfect for spring and summer tables. Bright yellow centers surrounded by soft blue petals, framed in mint green, and bordered with light gray. It feels fresh without being overwhelming.
What I love most is how the lace edging transforms a rectangular grid of squares into something more organic. The extra shells worked at the short ends create that gently curved oval silhouette you see in the finished piece. It softens the whole look.
At approximately 14 inches wide by 24 inches long after blocking, this runner fits beautifully on dining tables, console tables, or dressers. It’s substantial enough to make an impact but not so large that it overwhelms your furniture.
Materials You’ll Need
Yarn: Sport weight yarn (CYCA #2 / Fine), 100% cotton or cotton blend, approximately 800 yards total
Break down by color:
Hook: US B-1 / 2.25 mm or US C-2 / 2.75 mm. Adjust to achieve gauge.
Notions:
Yarn Suggestions
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK used on a smaller hook works wonderfully. You’d need 1 ball each of Buttercup Yellow, Cornflower Blue, Spearmint, and 2 balls of Misty Grey.
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in DK is another excellent choice. It’s smooth, durable, and machine washable. Choose Goldenrod, Cornflower, Mint, and Silver colorways.
Scheepjes Catona in 4-ply/fingering weight used with a slightly larger hook gives exceptional color saturation and stitch clarity for showing off those daisy petal details.
Avoid acrylic or acrylic blend yarns for this project. Cotton or linen blends are preferred because they block flat and maintain that crisp drape you want in a table runner.
Gauge
With recommended hook: 18 dc = 4 inches (10 cm) measured over a flat double crochet (dc) swatch, blocked.
1 completed granny square through Round 4 should measure approximately 3.75 inches by 3.75 inches after joining and blocking.
Gauge matters here. If your squares are larger than 3.75 inches, go down a hook size. If they’re smaller, go up a hook size. Fifteen squares at correct gauge in a 3 by 5 grid produce the stated finished dimensions.
Skill Level and Time Estimate
Skill Level: Intermediate
This pattern requires comfort with working in the round, understanding granny square construction, joining motifs, and executing a multi-round lace edging. The daisy petal technique involves working cluster stitches around a center ring. Beginners should practice this special stitch before starting the full project.
Time Estimate: 18 to 26 hours total
Individual granny squares take approximately 30 to 45 minutes each once you’re familiar with the technique. Assembly and edging add roughly 5 to 8 hours.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Special Stitches
Daisy Petal Cluster (DPC)
This stitch creates a single puff-like petal around the foundation ring or designated stitch.
Step 1: Yarn over once.
Step 2: Insert hook into the designated stitch or space.
Step 3: Yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on hook.
Step 4: Yarn over once more.
Step 5: Insert hook into the same stitch or space again.
Step 6: Yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 5 loops on hook.
Step 7: Yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook. One DPC made.
Step 8: Chain 1 to close and lock the petal in place.
Note: The chain 1 closing stitch is NOT counted as a stitch. The DPC itself counts as 1 stitch.
3-Double Crochet Cluster (3dc-cl)
Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into designated space or stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops only. One incomplete dc made. (3 loops on hook.)
Step 2: Yarn over, insert hook into the same space, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops only. Two incomplete dc made. (4 loops on hook.)
Step 3: Yarn over, insert hook into the same space, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops only. Three incomplete dc made. (5 loops on hook.)
Step 4: Yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook. 3dc-cl made.
Shell Stitch
5 dc worked into the same stitch or space. This creates a fan shape and is used in the lace edging.
V-Stitch
(dc, ch 2, dc) worked into the same stitch or space.
Picot
Ch 3, sl st into the first ch made (the ch closest to the hook). One picot made. This creates a small decorative bump.
Joining Slip Stitch (JSS)
Used to join squares flat. Insert hook through the corresponding stitch of the adjacent square (working through both loops), draw up a loop, and complete as a slip stitch.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
1. Each granny square is worked entirely in the round, beginning with a magic ring or a foundation chain ring.
2. All rounds are worked with the right side facing unless stated otherwise. Do not turn work between rounds of a single granny square.
3. Color changes happen at the joining slip stitch at the end of each round. Fasten off the current color and join the new color with a standing stitch or a slip stitch join.
4. Make 15 identical granny squares. They’re arranged in a 3 wide by 5 long grid.
5. Squares are joined using the flat slip stitch join method on Round 5 (the gray joining round).
6. Weave in ends as you complete each square. Do not leave this to the end because the number of color changes will be overwhelming.
7. If you prefer a foundation chain ring instead of a magic ring, ch 4 and sl st to the first ch to form the ring, then work Round 1 into the ring.
Granny Square Instructions (Make 15)
Each square uses Color A (Yellow) for Round 1, Color B (Blue) for Rounds 2 and 3, Color C (Mint Green) for Round 4, and Color D (Gray) for the outer granny square frame.
Round 1 (Color A, Yellow)
Make a magic ring.
Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch throughout).
Work 12 DPC into the ring, each followed by ch 1 (the closing chain is part of the DPC stitch as described above).
After the 12th DPC, sl st to the top of the first DPC to close the round.
Do not fasten off yet. Pull magic ring tail to close the center.
Stitch count: 12 DPC with 12 ch-1 spaces between them. (12 DPC)
Round 2 (Color B, Blue)
Fasten off Color A. Join Color B with a sl st into any ch-1 space between DPC petals.
Work a standing dc or ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout Round 2) into the same ch-1 space.
Work 1 dc into the same ch-1 space. (2 dc in first space.)
Work 2 dc into the next ch-1 space. Rep from around all 12 ch-1 spaces.
Sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or top of the first standing dc) to close the round.
Stitch count: 24 dc (2 dc in each of 12 ch-1 spaces)
Round 3 (Color B, Blue)
Do not fasten off. Continue in Color B.
Ch 1. Sl st into the space between the first pair of dc from Round 2 (the gap between any 2-dc group and the next 2-dc group). This is a between-group space.
There are 12 between-group spaces and 12 on-top-of-group positions. Work Round 3 as follows:
*(In the between-group space: sc 1, ch 2, sc 1). This forms a small arch between petals.
(In the next 2 dc of the group on top: DPC into the first dc, ch 1, DPC into the second dc, ch 1). These two DPCs form a wider petal pair on top of the previous round’s dc pair.*
Rep from * around all 12 between-group spaces and 12 groups.
Sl st to the first sc to close.
Stitch count: 12 sc, 12 ch-2 arches, 24 DPC (2 per group), 24 ch-1 spaces
Checkpoint: After Round 3 your daisy motif should be circular, approximately 1.75 to 2 inches across, with a yellow center surrounded by a ring of blue petals.
Round 4 (Color C, Mint Green)
Fasten off Color B. Join Color C with a standing dc or sl st + ch 3 into any ch-2 arch from Round 3.
This round turns the circular daisy into a square. The 12 ch-2 arches from Round 3 divide naturally into 4 groups of 3 arches each. Each group of 3 arches becomes one side of the square, with the middle arch of each group receiving the corner treatment.
Work as follows:
Starting position: standing dc into the first ch-2 arch. This is a side arch, not a corner arch.
Into starting arch: (dc, ch 1, dc). This is a side arch mini-shell.
Into next ch-2 arch (this is the corner arch): (3dc-cl, ch 2, 3dc-cl). This creates the corner.
Into next ch-2 arch: (dc, ch 1, dc). Side arch mini-shell.
You’ve now completed one full side (3 arches). Rep this 3-arch sequence (side, corner, side) for the remaining 3 sides:
(dc, ch 1, dc) into next arch. (3dc-cl, ch 2, 3dc-cl) into next arch (corner). (dc, ch 1, dc) into next arch.
Rep from * 3 more times.
Sl st to the top of the beginning standing dc (or ch-3) to close.
Stitch count: 4 ch-2 corner spaces, 4 ch-1 side spaces, 16 dc, 8 cluster stitches. (28 stitches + 8 chain spaces)
Round 5 (Color D, Gray)
Fasten off Color C. Join Color D into any corner ch-2 space.
Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Into the same corner ch-2 sp: (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). This creates the first corner shell.
*Along the side to the next corner:
Dc into each dc across (4 dc).
Dc into the ch-1 side space (1 dc).
Dc into each dc across (4 dc).
(So: 9 dc total between corners, counting the ch-1 sp as worked into.)
Into corner ch-2 sp: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).*
Rep from * around all 4 sides and 4 corners.
End with sl st to top of beginning ch-3 to close.
Stitch count per side between corners: 9 dc
Stitch count per corner: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) = 6 dc + 1 ch-2 space
Total: 60 dc + 4 ch-2 corner spaces
Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
Checkpoint: Each completed square should measure 3.5 to 3.75 inches from edge to edge. All 15 squares must match within 1/8 inch of each other. Block individual squares if needed before joining.
Joining the Squares
Arrange the 15 squares in a 3-column by 5-row grid on a flat surface with right sides facing up. The grain of each square (corner ch-2 spaces pointing to the 4 compass points) should align uniformly across all squares.
Flat Slip Stitch Join Method
Hold 2 squares with wrong sides together so right sides face outward.
Working through both layers simultaneously, join Color D to the corner ch-2 space of both squares.
Along the shared edge, sl st through corresponding stitches of both squares as follows:
Sl st into corner ch-2 sp of both squares.
Sl st into each dc across (9 dc per side).
Sl st into the next corner ch-2 sp of both squares.
This creates a visible flat seam ridge on the right side of the work, forming the grid lines seen in the finished runner.
Join Order
Step 1: Join the 3 squares of Row 1 together along their shared vertical seams. You’ll make 2 vertical seam joins in Row 1.
Step 2: Repeat for Rows 2, 3, 4, and 5. (2 joins per row x 5 rows = 10 vertical joins total.)
Step 3: Join Row 1 to Row 2 along the shared horizontal seam (full width of 3 squares). When you reach an intersection where a horizontal and vertical seam meet, sl st through the junction point and continue.
Step 4: Continue joining Row 2 to Row 3, Row 3 to Row 4, and Row 4 to Row 5. (4 horizontal joins total.)
Total joins: 14 seam joins.
At each 4-way intersection where 4 corners meet, insert the hook through all 4 corner ch-2 spaces simultaneously and work 1 sl st to anchor them. This prevents holes at the intersections.
Stitch count along each joined edge: 11 sl sts per shared edge (1 sl st at each corner ch-2 sp + 9 sl sts across the dc stitches)
Checkpoint: After all joins the assembled runner should measure approximately 11.25 inches wide by 18.75 inches long before edging. Lay the runner flat and confirm all squares lie without puckering or rippling.
Lace Edging
The lace edging is worked in Color D (Gray) around the entire outer perimeter of the assembled runner. The edging is worked in 4 rounds.
Edging Round 1 (Color D, Gray, Right Side Facing)
Join Color D into any outer corner ch-2 space of the runner.
Ch 1. Sc into the same space.
Work sc evenly around the entire perimeter as follows:
Long sides: Sc into each dc across each square’s outer edge. Sc into each join point (the sl st seam junction on the outer edge). At corner ch-2 spaces of squares that fall on the straight side (not at the runner’s own corners): work (sc, ch 1, sc) into the ch-2 space.
At the 4 outer corners of the runner (where the short end meets the long side): work (sc, ch 2, sc) into the corner ch-2 space. These 4 corner ch-2 spaces are the true corners of the runner.
Short ends: Work the same as long sides for the 3 squares across each short end.
When you return to the beginning, sl st to the first sc to close.
Stitch count: 188 sc + 8 ch-1 sp + 4 ch-2 corner sp
Edging Round 2 (Color D, Gray, Right Side Facing)
Sl st to move into the next sc. Ch 3 (counts as first dc).
Work as follows around:
Along straight sections: (Sk 2 sc, shell of 5 dc into next sc, sk 2 sc, sc into next sc). Rep from across each straight section, adjusting final repeat if needed to arrive at the corner.
At each of the 4 corner ch-2 spaces: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the ch-2 space. This creates a double-fan corner that begins to round out the short ends.
At the short ends: work the shell pattern along the short end stitches, but add an extra shell repeat at the midpoint of each short end to add extra width and encourage the oval shape. At the center sc of each short end, work (5 dc, ch 1, 5 dc) into the same center sc instead of a standard shell.
Sl st to the top of beginning ch-3 to close.
Note: If the shell repeat does not divide evenly into your sc count on a given side, adjust by working sc into the extra stitches at the sides of the section so the shells fall symmetrically.
Edging Round 3 (Color D, Gray, Right Side Facing)
Sl st to move into the center dc of the first shell from Round 2.
Ch 1. Sc into the same st.
Ch 4. Sc into the center dc of the next shell. Rep from across straight sections.
Into each sc from Round 2 (between shells): ch 4, sc into the sc.
At corners: work (sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc) into the ch-2 corner spaces from Round 2 to continue rounding the corners.
At the special double-shell at short end center: work (sc, ch 5, sc) into the ch-1 space between the two 5-dc groups for a slightly larger arch at the oval center.
Sl st to first sc to close.
Edging Round 4 (Color D, Gray, Right Side Facing)
This is the final scallop and picot round.
Sl st into first ch-4 arch.
Ch 1. Into each ch-4 arch: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc). This creates a scallop shell.
Into each ch-5 arch at the oval end centers: (sc, hdc, 4 dc, hdc, sc). Slightly larger scallop.
At each corner ch-4 arch, to maintain flat rounding, work (sc, hdc, 3 dc, picot, 2 dc, hdc, sc) into the arch.
Sl st to first sc to close. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
Checkpoint: After the completed 4-round lace edging, the runner should measure approximately 14 inches wide by 24 inches long with a visibly rounded oval outline at the short ends and straight sides along the long edges.
Size Customization Tips
To make the runner longer: Add squares in multiples of 1 row (3 additional squares per row added). Each additional row adds approximately 3.75 inches to the length before edging. Increase Color B and Color D yardage by approximately 80 yards per additional row.
To make the runner wider: Add squares in multiples of 1 column (5 additional squares per column added). Each additional column adds approximately 3.75 inches to the width. Increase Color B and Color D yardage by approximately 65 yards per additional column.
To make a round doily version: Arrange squares in a 3 by 3 grid (9 squares total) and work the edging with extra corner shells at all 4 corners. Total yardage approximately 540 yards.
To adjust overall size without changing grid dimensions: Change yarn weight. Using DK weight yarn at corresponding gauge will produce a runner approximately 20% larger. Using fingering/4-ply weight at gauge will produce a runner approximately 15 to 20% smaller.
Finishing and Blocking
Blocking this runner is strongly recommended. It will dramatically improve the appearance of the lace edging and the uniformity of the granny squares.
Step 1: Weave in all remaining ends securely on the wrong side of the work.
Step 2: Fill a basin with cool water and mild wool wash or plain water.
Step 3: Submerge the runner completely and gently press out air. Do not wring or twist.
Step 4: Lift the runner from the water and gently press between two clean towels to remove excess moisture.
Step 5: Lay the runner on blocking mats wrong side up.
Step 6: Pin the runner to its finished dimensions: 14 inches wide, 24 inches long. Use pins placed every 0.5 inch along the scallop edges, pinning each scallop peak outward to open the lace.
Step 7: At the short oval ends, use additional pins in a gentle curve to establish the rounded shape.
Step 8: Allow to dry completely before removing pins. Drying time is typically 12 to 24 hours depending on humidity and ventilation.
Care Instructions
Hand wash in cool water with mild detergent. If using 100% cotton yarn, machine wash on the delicate cycle in a mesh laundry bag. Do not use hot water as this can cause cotton to shrink. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry. Press with a cool iron through a damp pressing cloth if needed to restore the flat blocked shape after washing.
Final Thoughts on This Blue Daisy Crochet Table Runner Pattern
This Blue Daisy Granny Square Table Runner is one of those projects that looks incredibly impressive but is really just the same square made fifteen times. Once you get the rhythm of those daisy petal clusters down, you’ll be cranking out squares while watching your favorite shows.
The finished piece makes a gorgeous gift for housewarmings, weddings, or Mother’s Day. Or keep it for yourself. Your table deserves something this pretty.
Thank you so much for choosing this crochet pattern. I hope you love making it as much as I loved designing it. If you create one, I’d absolutely love to see it! Tag me on Instagram or share your photos in our Facebook group.
If you enjoyed this pattern, save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you’re ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make this runner. I love hearing which color combinations you choose and seeing your finished projects!
