I’ve been looking for the perfect floral tote pattern for ages, and this one stopped me in my tracks. The combination of raised puff stitch flowers, delicate mint green leaves, and that gorgeous deep purple frame creates something truly special. This is my favourite kind of project: granny squares with a twist that looks far more complicated than it actually is.
If you’re comfortable with basic granny squares and want to stretch your skills just a little, this bag is calling your name. The three-dimensional flower centers give it that "wow" factor, but I promise the construction is completely manageable.
Let me walk you through everything you need to know to make your own Lavender Fields tote from start to finish.
About This Crochet Pattern
This structured tote bag features eighteen identical floral granny squares arranged in a 3×3 grid on each side. The squares get joined together and framed with a deep purple border, creating that beautiful grid effect you see in the finished piece. What makes this bag special is the construction: a flat rectangular bottom, gusseted sides that give the bag real depth, a scalloped decorative edge along the bottom, and a long crocheted shoulder strap.
Each square showcases a three-dimensional puff stitch flower center worked in lavender and light purple tones. The flowers are surrounded by mint green leaf clusters and finished with a solid deep purple outer frame. When you join all the squares together, that purple framing creates gorgeous visual lines across the entire bag.
The construction order keeps things logical: make all squares first, join them into two panels, crochet the side and bottom gusset strip, join the panels to the gusset, add the scallop border, then crochet and attach the strap.
Skill Level
This pattern is intermediate level. You should be comfortable with granny squares, puff stitches, joining methods, working in rounds, and crocheting a long narrow strap. No advanced shaping is involved, but the three-dimensional puff flower and precise joining of 18 squares requires patience and careful counting.
Don’t let "intermediate" scare you off if you’re an adventurous beginner. If you’ve made a few granny squares and you’re willing to learn the puff stitch, you can absolutely tackle this project.
Time Estimate
Plan for 20 to 30 hours depending on your speed. Each square takes approximately 30 to 45 minutes. Joining, the border, and strap add another 6 to 8 hours. This is a wonderful project to work on over a few weeks, making a square or two each evening.
Finished Measurements
The completed bag measures approximately 14 inches wide by 13 inches tall (not including the strap), with a gusset depth of approximately 3 inches.
In metric: approximately 35.5 cm wide by 33 cm tall, with a 7.5 cm gusset depth.
Each granny square measures approximately 4.5 inches (11.5 cm) square after joining and light blocking.
Materials Needed
Yarn: Worsted weight (Category 4) in five colors:
Hook: US size J-10 (6.0 mm) crochet hook
Notions:
Yarn Suggestions
Option 1: Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in Dusty Purple (Color A), Dusty Lavender (Color B), Purple (Color C), Pale Lavender (Color D), and Mint (Color E). This yarn is widely available, affordable, and has excellent stitch definition for puff stitches.
Option 2: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK held double as a worsted substitute, in Violet Purple, Lilac, Wisteria Purple, Baby Pink, and Spearmint Green. Holding two strands together gives wonderful drape and structure for a tote.
Option 3: WeCrochet Wool of the Andes Worsted in Eggplant (Color A), Haze (Color B), Amethyst Heather (Color C), Blossom Heather (Color D), and Spearmint (Color E). The wool content adds structure and blocks beautifully.
Substitution Note: Any smooth worsted weight yarn that achieves the stated gauge will work. Avoid very fuzzy or textured yarn as it obscures the puff stitch detail. Cotton or cotton-blend yarns are excellent for a tote as they add structure and are machine washable.
Gauge
One completed granny square = 4.5 inches (11.5 cm) square, blocked.
In single crochet (sc): 14 sc and 16 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) with a J-10 hook.
Gauge matters here for the final bag dimensions and for ensuring squares join neatly. Swatch and adjust your hook size if needed.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
Special Stitches for This Crochet Tutorial
Puff Stitch (ps)
This creates the beautiful raised bobble effect at the flower center. Here’s how to work it step by step:
1. Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch or space.
2. Yarn over, pull up a loop to the height of a double crochet (3 loops on hook).
3. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch or space again.
4. Yarn over, pull up a loop to the same height (5 loops on hook).
5. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch or space a third time.
6. Yarn over, pull up a loop to the same height (7 loops on hook).
7. Yarn over, draw through all 7 loops on hook.
The key is pulling up each loop to the same height. This keeps your puffs even and plump.
3-dc Cluster
1. Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch or space, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops (2 loops remain on hook).
2. Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch or space, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops (3 loops remain on hook).
3. Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch or space, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops (4 loops remain on hook).
4. Yarn over, draw through all 4 loops.
Scallop Stitch
1. Skip 2 stitches.
2. Work 5 dc into the next stitch.
3. Skip 2 stitches.
4. Sl st into the next stitch.
This creates one complete scallop shell over 6 stitches.
Flat Join
With RS facing, hold two squares together with edges aligned. Insert hook through both corresponding corner or edge stitches, draw up a loop of Color A, ch 1, then sc through both layers across the edge. This creates a visible ridge on the RS that frames each square with Color A.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
Step by Step Crochet Pattern Instructions
Granny Square (Make 18)
The flower is worked in rounds using Colors B, C, D, and E, with Color A for the outer frame.
With Color B, make a magic ring (or ch 4 and join with sl st to form a ring).
Round 1 (Color B): Ch 1 (does not count as st), work 8 sc into the ring. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off Color B. (8 sc)
Round 2 (Color C): Join Color C with sl st to any sc. Ch 1 (does not count as st). Work 1 ps into the same sc. Ch 1. (1 ps, ch 1) into each sc around. Join with sl st to top of first ps. Fasten off Color C. (8 puff stitches, 8 ch-1 spaces)
Round 3 (Color D): Join Color D with sl st to any ch-1 sp. Ch 2 (counts as first hdc). Work 2 hdc into same ch-1 sp. Work 3 hdc into each ch-1 sp around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-2. Fasten off Color D. (24 hdc)
Round 4 (Color B): Join Color B with sl st to the space between any two 3-hdc groups. Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Work 2 dc into same space. Ch 1. Work 3 dc into the space between the next two 3-hdc groups. Ch 1. Rep from beginning of this pattern around, working (3 dc, ch 1) into each space between groups. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off Color B. (8 groups of 3 dc, 8 ch-1 spaces) (24 dc, 8 ch-1 sps)
Round 5 (Color E): Join Color E with sl st to any ch-1 sp. Ch 1. Work (1 sc, ch 3, 1 sc) into each ch-1 sp around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off Color E. (16 sc, 8 ch-3 loops forming leaf points)
Round 6 (Color B): Join Color B with sl st to the top of any dc from Round 4, working behind the leaf loops of Round 5. Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Working behind Round 5 leaf loops throughout this round: work 1 dc into each of the next 2 dc (these are the remaining dc of that group). Work 1 dc into the ch-1 sp. Work 1 dc into each of the 3 dc of the next group. Work 1 dc into the ch-1 sp. Rep around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off Color B. (32 dc)
Checkpoint: Your flower motif should now measure approximately 2.75 inches (7 cm) across. The leaf loops stand up and away from the fabric. The puff stitch center is raised.
Round 7 (Color A): Join Color A with sl st to any dc. Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Work 1 dc into each of the next 3 dc. Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into the next dc for the first corner. Work 1 dc into each of the next 4 dc for the first side. Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into the next dc for the second corner. Work 1 dc into each of the next 4 dc. Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into the next dc for the third corner. Work 1 dc into each of the next 4 dc. Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into the next dc for the fourth corner. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (48 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces)
Note on Round 7 placement: The 32 dc of Round 6 divide evenly by 4, giving 8 dc per side. Place a corner into the 4th dc of every group of 8 dc, centering a corner at each quarter point.
Round 8 (Color A): Sl st into next dc. Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Work 1 dc into each dc to the corner ch-2 sp. Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into the corner ch-2 sp. Work 1 dc into each dc along the next side to the corner. Rep for all 4 corners. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (64 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces) Side count: 14 dc per side, plus 4 corner ch-2 sps.
Round 9 (Color A): Sl st into next dc. Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Work 1 dc into each dc to the corner ch-2 sp. Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into the corner ch-2 sp. Work 1 dc into each dc along the next side to the corner. Rep for all 4 corners. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (80 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces) Side count: 18 dc per side, plus 4 corner ch-2 sps.
Fasten off and weave in all ends. Block square to 4.5 inches (11.5 cm).
Make 18 squares total.
Checkpoint: You should have 18 identical blocked squares. Each measures 4.5 inches (11.5 cm). The RS shows the raised puff flower centered in each square with visible green leaf points.
Joining Squares Into Panels
Each panel is 3 squares wide and 3 squares tall, giving a panel that measures approximately 13.5 inches (34 cm) wide by 13.5 inches (34 cm) tall before the gusset and border are added.
Arrange 9 squares in a 3×3 grid on a flat surface with all RS facing up. Arrange squares so that the leaf points of adjacent squares create a consistent directional pattern if desired, or orient randomly for a more relaxed look.
Step 1 Vertical joins (joining squares within each horizontal row): Hold the top-right square and top-middle square with RS together. Using Color A and the flat join method, sc through both layers along the shared edge. Work 1 sc into each dc stitch along the edge. At the corner ch-2 sp, work 3 sc into the corner space. Continue along the edge. (approximately 20 sc per seam including corners). Fasten off. Repeat to join the top-middle to the top-left square. Repeat for the middle row and bottom row. (6 vertical seams per panel)
Step 2 Horizontal joins (joining rows to each other): Hold the top row and middle row with RS together. Using Color A and the flat join method, sc through both layers along the full shared edge, working across all 3 squares in the row. Work through the seam intersections firmly. Fasten off. Repeat to join the middle row to the bottom row. (2 horizontal seams per panel)
Make 2 panels in this way (front and back).
Checkpoint: Each completed panel should measure approximately 13.5 inches (34 cm) square. The join seams create a dark purple grid over the RS.
Gusset Strip
The gusset strip forms the bottom and two sides of the bag, connecting the front and back panels.
Total gusset length needed: 68 inches (173 cm).
Gusset width: 3 inches (7.5 cm).
With Color A, ch 12.
Row 1: Sc into the 2nd ch from hook. Sc into each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (11 sc)
Rows 2 onward: Sc into each sc across. Ch 1, turn. (11 sc)
Continue until the strip measures 68 inches (173 cm) from the beginning. Fasten off.
Checkpoint: The completed gusset strip should be approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) wide and 68 inches (173 cm) long.
Assembling the Bag Body
Step 1: With Color A and RS facing out, pin the gusset strip around three sides of the front panel: starting at the top right corner, running along the right side, across the bottom, and up the left side to the top left corner. The strip should be flat against the panel edge with WS of strip facing the WS of the panel.
Step 2: Using Color A, sc the gusset strip to the front panel edge. Work 1 sc through both the gusset edge and the panel edge for every row or stitch along the edge. At the bottom corners, ease the strip around by working 3 sc into the corner of the gusset. Fasten off.
Step 3: Attach the back panel in the same way. Pin the opposite long edge of the gusset strip to the back panel, RS out. Sc the back panel to the gusset strip along all three sides (right side, bottom, left side). Fasten off.
The top of the bag is left open.
Checkpoint: The bag body is now three-dimensional. When held open, it should measure approximately 14 inches (35.5 cm) wide, 13 inches (33 cm) tall, and 3 inches (7.5 cm) deep.
Scallop Border
The scallop border is worked around the lower curved edge of the bag, creating the rounded scalloped hem visible on the finished piece.
Round 1 (preparation): Join Color A with sl st at the bottom right corner seam of the bag base. Ch 1. Work 1 sc evenly around the entire lower perimeter of the bag, placing sc into every available stitch and seam. Adjust stitch count to the nearest multiple of 6 plus 1. For a bag base perimeter of approximately 120 stitches, work 120 sc. Join with sl st. (120 sc)
Round 2 (scallops): Ch 1. Sl st into the first sc. Following the scallop stitch definition: sk 2 sc, work 5 dc into the next sc, sk 2 sc, sl st into the next sc. Rep around, working each scallop over 6 sc. With 120 sc, this produces 20 complete scallops. Join with sl st to first sl st. Fasten off Color A. (20 scallop shells)
Weave in all ends on the border.
Strap
The strap is a long, dense sc strip worked in Color A, folded lengthwise and slip stitched together to create a double-thick sturdy strap.
The finished strap is approximately 42 inches (106 cm) long and 1.5 inches (4 cm) wide.
With Color A, ch 15.
Row 1: Sc into the 2nd ch from hook. Sc into each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
Rows 2 through 140: Sc into each sc across. Ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
The strip should measure approximately 35 inches (89 cm) long after these 140 rows. Continue adding rows until the strip measures 44 inches (112 cm) long. Fasten off.
Fold the strip in half lengthwise so that it is now 7 sc wide and 44 inches long. Using Color A and a yarn needle, whipstitch the long open edge closed, creating a strap that is 7 sc wide (approximately 2 inches / 5 cm wide) and 44 inches (112 cm) long.
Alternatively, sl st along the long edge to close it in one pass.
Checkpoint: The completed strap should be firm, dense, and approximately 44 inches (112 cm) long and 2 inches (5 cm) wide.
Attaching the Strap
Step 1: Fold each end of the strap back on itself by 3 inches (7.5 cm), forming a loop end. Pin this loop to the inside top edge of the front panel, centered on the panel width (approximately 7 inches from each side seam).
Step 2: Using Color A and a yarn needle, sew through all layers firmly, working a box stitch (sewing a rectangle with a diagonal cross inside it) for maximum strength.
Step 3: Repeat on the inside top of the back panel for the other end of the strap.
Top Edge Finishing
With Color A, join with sl st to the top right corner of the bag opening.
Round 1: Ch 1. Work 1 sc into each available stitch around the entire top opening of the bag, including through the strap attachment points. Join with sl st. (approximately 92 sc around the top opening)
Round 2: Ch 1. Work 1 hdc into each sc around. Join with sl st. Fasten off.
This creates a neat, sturdy top rim around the bag opening.
Optional Lining
Cut two pieces of lining fabric each measuring 14.5 by 13.5 inches (37 by 34 cm) and one strip measuring 3.5 by 68 inches (9 by 173 cm) for the gusset. Sew with a 0.5 inch (1.5 cm) seam allowance. Insert the sewn fabric liner into the bag with WS of lining facing WS of crochet. Fold the top edge of the lining under by 0.5 inches (1.5 cm) and slip stitch the lining to the inside of the top edge, just below the hdc rim round.
Size Customization Tips
To make a larger bag: Use a 4-square by 4-square grid (16 squares per panel, 32 total) and adjust the gusset length and strap accordingly. The bag will be approximately 18 by 18 inches (46 by 46 cm).
To make a smaller clutch version: Use a 2-square by 2-square grid (4 squares per panel, 8 total) with a short strap or handles, approximately 9 by 9 inches (23 by 23 cm).
To change the gusset width: Simply change the starting chain of the gusset strip. Each additional stitch adds approximately 0.3 inches (7 mm) to the bag depth.
To adjust the square size: Change hook size or yarn weight. Using DK weight on a US size G-6 (4 mm) hook produces squares of approximately 3.5 inches (9 cm) each.
Finishing and Blocking
Before joining, wet block each granny square by submerging in cool water, gently squeezing out excess water in a towel, and pinning to a blocking mat to 4.5 inches (11.5 cm) square. Allow to dry completely (12 to 24 hours).
After the bag is fully assembled, lightly mist the exterior with water and reshape by hand. Stuff the bag with plastic bags or a towel to hold the rectangular shape while drying.
Weave in all ends securely, leaving at least a 4-inch (10 cm) tail on each end and weaving in two or more directions. Trim all ends close after weaving.
Care Instructions
If worked in acrylic yarn: Machine wash on a gentle cycle in cold water, lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry with heat as it may distort the puff stitches.
If worked in wool or wool-blend yarn: Hand wash in cool water with gentle wool wash, roll in a towel to remove excess water, reshape and lay flat to dry.
Do not iron directly over the puff stitch areas as this will flatten the three-dimensional texture. Store folded or hanging. If hanging on a hook, use a wide hanger to avoid distorting the strap.
Thank You for Making the Lavender Fields Purple Floral Tote
I hope you love making this beautiful floral tote as much as I enjoyed designing it. The puff stitch flowers really do make this bag a showstopper, and the construction is so satisfying once you get into a rhythm with those squares. Tag me on Instagram or share in my Facebook group when you finish yours. I would absolutely love to see your color combinations!
If you found this pattern helpful, save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it again when you’re ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make one. Hearing from you makes my day, and your photos inspire other makers to give it a try too!
