Plum Blush Rose Dress Crochet Pattern

I found this design tucked away in my sketchbook from last spring, labeled simply "the romantic one" with a messy arrow pointing to a swatch of deep purple yarn taped to the page.

I had originally dreamed it up for my niece’s third birthday, imagining her twirling through the garden party in something that looked like it belonged in a storybook. Life got busy, as it does, and the sketch sat waiting until now. I named her the Plum Blush Rose Dress because she truly feels like a character, not just a garment.

This toddler dress combines a structured double crochet bodice with a dramatic gathered skirt, flutter sleeves, and the most gorgeous lace fan hem. The coiled roses and leaves across the front transform it into wearable art. Yes, this is an intermediate to advanced project with lots of lovely details, but I promise every stitch is worth it when you see the finished piece.

About This Crochet Dress Pattern

The Plum Blush Rose Dress is designed for toddlers approximately 2 to 3 years old. Rather than going by age alone, you will want to choose this pattern based on measurements. The target finished chest circumference is 56 cm (22 inches), intended for a body chest measurement of 50 to 52 cm with 4 to 6 cm of ease built in.

The shoulder to hem length comes in around 46 to 49 cm, with the bodice depth measuring about 22 cm. This gives you a beautifully proportioned silhouette with that dramatic full skirt the little ones love.

Important note: This is a design draft pattern, not yet crochet tested. I highly recommend making a complete sample, measuring it carefully, and reviewing the fit before making this for a gift or special occasion. The AI generated design illustration gives you the overall look, but your crocheted version may differ slightly in stitch level details.

Materials You Will Need

Getting your supplies organized before you start makes the whole process so much smoother. Here is everything you need to create this dress:

Yarn

You will be working with sport weight or fine weight cotton yarn, approximately 125 meters per 50 grams. I love cotton for children’s occasion wear because it breathes beautifully and washes well.

Planning allowance by color:

Deep plum: 300 meters for the bodice and matching details, plus 400 meters for the skirt (700 meters total)

Dusty blush pink: 250 meters for sleeves, hem, and motifs

Sage green: 50 meters for leaves

Contrast colors: 25 meters each for flower centers or filler flowers

Your total comes to approximately 1,050 meters before small contrasts. Measure your actual usage on your sample to confirm.

Tools

3.5 mm crochet hook for the main garment

3 mm hook for appliques and cords

2.5 mm hook (optional) for tiny flowers

Tapestry needle

Stitch markers

Tape measure

Scissors

Rust resistant blocking pins

3 small sew in snaps with backing fabric

Adjust your garment hook size as needed to achieve gauge. This is so important for getting the right fit.

Gauge Information

Your blocked gauge should measure: 20 double crochet stitches and 12 rows equals 10 x 10 cm.

To check your gauge, chain 32. Work a double crochet (dc) in the third chain from hook and in each remaining chain across. You should have 30 dc. Work 18 rows total. Wash and dry your swatch exactly as you plan to care for the finished garment, then measure the central 20 stitches and 12 rows.

If your measurements do not match, change your hook size and swatch again. A larger hook will make your gauge looser (bigger), while a smaller hook will make it tighter (smaller). Keep swatching until both dimensions match.

Stitch Abbreviations and Definitions

Let me walk you through every stitch abbreviation you will encounter. Even if you know these by heart, a quick refresher never hurts.

ch = chain: yarn over, draw through the loop on your hook

sl st = slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, draw through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one movement

sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops

hdc = half double crochet: yarn over first, insert hook, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops

dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops twice

tr = treble crochet: yarn over twice before inserting hook, draw up a loop, then yarn over and draw through 2 loops three times

st(s) = stitch(es)

sp = space

inc = increase, meaning 2 stitches worked in one stitch

V-st = V stitch: work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in one location

sc2tog = single crochet two together (decrease): insert hook and draw up a loop in each of the next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops

Counting rule: Your turning chain 1 or chain 2 does NOT count as a stitch anywhere in this pattern. When joining rounds, join to the first actual stitch. Mark that stitch and count every shaping row.

Front Bodice Instructions

Let us start building this beautiful dress from the front bodice.

Rows 1 through 14

With deep plum yarn and your 3.5 mm hook, chain 58.

Row 1: Work a dc in the third chain from hook and in each remaining chain across. You should have 56 dc. Turn.

Rows 2 through 14: Chain 2, dc in every stitch across (56 dc). Turn after each row. Do not work a stitch into the turning chain.

Armhole Shaping, Row 15

Slip stitch in the first 4 stitches. Chain 2, then dc in each of the next 48 stitches. Leave the final 4 stitches unworked. Turn. You now have 48 dc. Those 4 unworked stitches on each side create a 2 cm underarm ledge.

Rows 16 through 20

Chain 2, dc in all 48 stitches. Turn. At gauge, your full panel is now about 16.7 cm tall.

Place removable markers around the outermost 10 stitches at each edge. The central 28 stitches will form your neckline opening.

First Shoulder, Rows 21 through 26

Chain 2, dc in the first 10 stitches only. Leave the remaining 38 stitches unworked and turn (10 dc). Work 5 more rows of 10 dc, turning each row. Fasten off with a sewing tail.

Second Shoulder, Rows 21 through 26

With the same face of the panel toward you, attach yarn at the opposite outer edge of Row 20. Working toward the center, chain 2 and dc across only the outermost 10 stitches. Turn and work 5 more rows of 10 dc. Fasten off. Both shoulder straps must have 6 rows above Row 20.

Checkpoint Measurements

Panel width below armholes: 28 cm

Width above underarm ledges: 24 cm

Shoulder width: 5 cm each

Neckline gap: 14 cm

Overall height: approximately 21.7 cm

The decorative neckline cords you add later will create a curved visual outline over this square structural opening.

Back Bodice Instructions

Rows 1 through 14

Using deep plum, make a second panel exactly like the front. Work 56 dc each row. Mark the center between stitches 28 and 29.

Left Half, Rows 15 through 23

Row 15: Slip stitch in the first 4 stitches. Chain 2, dc in the next 24 stitches, stopping at the center marker. Leave the other half unworked. Turn (24 dc).

Rows 16 through 23: Chain 2, dc in each stitch. Turn (24 dc). Fasten off.

Right Half, Rows 15 through 23

Return to the unworked half of Row 14. Attach yarn at the center marker and work toward the outer edge. Chain 2, dc in the next 24 stitches, leaving the final 4 stitches unworked. Turn (24 dc). Work Rows 16 through 23 as for the left half. Fasten off. The center edges remain separate to create your back opening.

Back Shoulders, Rows 24 through 26

On each half, attach yarn at the outer armhole edge of Row 23 and dc across the outermost 10 stitches. Leave the inner 14 stitches unworked. Turn and work 2 more rows of 10 dc. Fasten off. The two 14 stitch inner gaps create a 28 stitch back neckline.

Joining the Bodice

Block both panels to your target measurements. With right sides together, join each pair of 10 stitch shoulder tops using mattress stitch. To work mattress stitch, align your matching edges and pick up one small strand from each edge alternately with a tapestry needle. Tighten gradually so the join lies flat.

Join the side edges from the foundation edge through Row 14 only, matching rows carefully. Keep all upper edges open for armholes. Turn right side out.

The lower edge has 56 foundation stitches on each panel, 112 total. Try the bodice on a correctly sized dress form before adding the skirt, checking chest ease and head access.

Skirt Construction

This is where the magic happens. That gorgeous full skirt comes from an intentional doubling in the first round.

Round 1

With deep plum, join at one side seam of the bodice foundation. Chain 2, then work 2 dc into the underside of each of the 112 foundation stitches. You now have 224 dc. Join.

Rounds 2 through 23

Chain 2, dc in each stitch around. Join (224 dc each round). Turn after every round to reduce bias and keep the join less visible.

Round 24

Chain 2. Repeat the following 16 times: dc in the next 13 stitches, 2 dc in the next stitch. Join (240 dc). Each repeat uses 14 old stitches and creates 15 new stitches.

Hem Foundation

Chain 1, sc in each dc around. Join (240 sc). Change to your dusty blush pink accent color for the fan border.

Before adding the border, your skirt should measure approximately 20 cm below the waist. Check this length on your sample.

Flutter Sleeves

These sweet ruffled cap sleeves add such a romantic touch to the dress.

Sleeve Foundation

Using dusty blush pink and your 3.5 mm hook, identify the shoulder seam on one armhole. Measure 6 cm down the front edge and 6 cm down the back edge. Mark both points.

Join at the front marker. Work 30 sc evenly across the 12 cm upper arc to the back marker, crossing the shoulder seam. Do not work around the lower underarm.

Flutter Rows

Turn.

Row 2: Chain 2, 2 dc in each sc across (60 dc). Turn.

Row 3: Chain 2. Repeat the following 30 times: dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch (90 dc). Turn.

Row 4: Chain 1, sc in every stitch (90 sc). Fasten off.

Repeat on the other armhole, matching the marked arc and counts. You now have one softly ruffled cap sleeve on each side.

Lace Hem Border

The fan border is absolutely stunning and worth taking your time with.

Hem Round 1

With dusty blush pink, join in any of the 240 hem foundation sc. Chain 1 and sc in that same stitch.

Repeat 24 times: Skip the next 4 foundation stitches, work 11 tr in the next stitch, skip the next 4 foundation stitches, sc in the next stitch.

The last sc location is your starting sc. Instead of making a second sc there, join to the first sc. You now have 24 fans of 11 tr and 24 sc anchors.

Hem Round 2

Chain 1, sc in the same anchor.

For each fan: Chain 1, work dc in each of its 11 tr with chain 1 between adjacent dc, chain 1, sc in the next anchor.

On the last fan, join to the first sc instead of making a duplicate anchor. Each fan now has 11 dc and 12 chain 1 spaces.

Hem Round 3

Chain 1. Work sc in each sc anchor, each dc, and each chain 1 space around. Join and fasten off (576 sc).

Keep your tension relaxed. Wet block individual fans into smooth rounded scallops without pulling the skirt waist wider.

Coiled Rose Motifs

These roses are the showstopper detail that makes this dress so special.

Standard Rose Petal Strip

With dusty blush pink and your 3 mm hook, chain 42.

Row 1: Sc in the second chain from hook and in each chain across (41 sc). Turn.

Row 2: Chain 1, sc in first stitch. Repeat the following 10 times: skip 1 stitch, 5 dc in next stitch, skip 1 stitch, sc in next stitch.

You now have 10 petals and 11 anchoring sc. Fasten off, leaving 35 cm for sewing.

Shaping the Rose

Starting at one short end, roll the strip with the scallops pointing upward. Keep the first two petals tight for the center, then overlap the others more loosely. Stitch through every layer across the underside. Aim for a 4 to 5 cm flower. Do not leave a loose spiral.

Larger Waist Rose

Make a second strip with chain 58. Work 57 sc in Row 1 and 14 petals in Row 2 using the same repeat. Roll and sew. Aim for 6 to 7 cm.

For a flatter lower border rose, use the smaller rose and press its base outward before sewing.

Color Placement

Use dusty blush pink for the main roses. For a two color bouquet, make half the small roses in deep plum and half in dusty blush pink. Embroider three tight pale stitches across each center if you want a pearl like accent. Do not add loose beads for child safety.

Leaves and Small Flowers

Pointed Leaf

With sage green and your 3 mm hook, chain 9.

Working along one side: sl st in the second chain from hook, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, and (sc, ch 2, sc) in the last chain.

Continue along the opposite side of the same chain: hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in last. Fasten off with a sewing tail.

Embroider a straight vein down the middle if desired.

Tiny Filler Flower

With a contrast color and 3 mm hook, make a magic ring. To make a magic ring, create an adjustable loop around two fingers, insert the hook through it and draw up the working yarn. Chain 1, then work the stitches over both strands of the loop.

Repeat 5 times into the ring: chain 2, 2 dc, chain 2, sl st.

Tighten, fasten off, and sew the center securely. Embroider a contrasting center using three short straight stitches.

Quantities

Make 8 main motifs for a lower front garland and 16 leaves. Make 1 large central waist motif plus 2 smaller waist motifs. These counts create a front focused design while the back remains plain.

Applique Placement

Lay the blocked dress flat. Mark the front center and both side seams. Arrange motifs 3 to 5 cm above the start of the lace hem, distributing them evenly between the side seams. Overlap only the leaf bases, not their tips.

Baste first, then sew around all edges and through every layered center with small matching stitches. Every applique edge must be secured for child safety.

Decorative Cords and Waist Finish

Making the Cords

With dusty blush pink and your 3 mm hook, chain to the needed measured length, then sl st back along the chain.

Make two neckline cords about 30 cm each and two V panel cords about 18 cm each. Measure against your blocked bodice before cutting. Sew all cords flat to the fabric. They are ornaments, not functional lacing.

Front Arrangement

Use the design illustration as a placement guide. Form a curved or sweetheart outline just below the real neckline. Place the paired V cords from the upper chest toward the central waist motif.

Where crossed lacing appears in the image, embroider 4 to 5 shallow crosses directly on the fabric between the cords. Do not leave long loose cord spans.

Lower Scrolls

Make additional slip stitched chains to bridge the spaces between lower motifs in shallow S curves. Baste first and secure every 1 cm. Keep chains away from the loose outer hem fans.

Waist

Sew the central motif at the front waist and small motifs on either side. Reinforce the reverse with matching stitches without cinching the waist.

Neckline Edge and Back Bands

Neckline Edge

Using deep plum, join at the back neck. Work 1 sc per horizontal stitch and approximately 2 sc per dc row end around the neck, excluding the vertical center back slit.

At inner corners, work sc2tog across the corner if needed to lie flat. Join. Work one further round of sc. Join and fasten off. Keep both sides symmetrical.

Back Bands

Along each vertical back slit edge, work 2 sc into each dc row end for Rows 15 through 23 (18 sc). Turn and work 2 more rows of 18 sc. Fasten off.

Lightly block the two bands so that they overlap by about 1 cm without pulling the back panel.

Closures

Sew three snaps through small soft backing patches, positioned at approximately 1 cm below the top of the slit, at its midpoint, and 1 cm above its bottom. Align paired halves before stitching. Cover exposed backing edges with soft fabric. Confirm that the opening allows easy dressing without pulling the neckline.

Finishing and Blocking

Weave all ends through several stitches, reverse direction, and secure. Wash according to your yarn label. Gently press out water in a towel. Do not wring.

Pin the bodice to 56 cm chest circumference, ease the skirt outward without stretching the waist, and shape the lace scallops, sleeve ruffles, and appliques. Dry completely on a flat surface.

Care Instructions

Hand wash cool if compatible with all materials. Support the wet garment and dry flat. Do not hang while wet. Check snaps, seams, and applique attachments before each wear. Repair any loose parts before use.

Wearable Safety Notes

The illustration may show decorative beads or ribbon. For a child worn garment, substitute embroidered centers, stitch sash and bow tails flat, and secure every applique edge thoroughly.

Use with a sewn cotton slip or suitable underdress where the lace fabric is open. This design is occasion clothing, not sleepwear.

Sample Review Checklist

Before considering this pattern complete, measure your blocked sample and record:

Actual chest circumference (target: 56 cm)

Shoulder to waist length

Armhole opening

Neckline opening

Slit length

Shoulder to hem length (target: 46 to 49 cm)

Verify your stitch counts:

Front and lower back: 56 stitches each

Armhole width: 48 stitches

Back halves: 24 stitches each

Shoulders: 10 stitches each

Bodice lower edge: 112 stitches

Hem foundation: 240 stitches

Lace hem: 24 fans

Have an independent crocheter follow the written instructions without extra verbal help to confirm everything is clear.

Making Length Adjustments

If you need a longer or shorter dress, add or remove plain skirt rounds before the final shaping or hem. At gauge, one dc round changes length by about 0.8 cm.

Preserve the final 240 stitch hem foundation so your lace border works correctly. Chest changes require a fresh graded calculation. Do not simply change hook size for a different chest measurement.

Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your little one’s special occasion dress. I truly hope she twirls and spins in this just like I imagined.

If you make the Plum Blush Rose Dress, I would absolutely love to see it. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group. Seeing your finished projects is honestly the best part of designing.

Do not forget to save this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you are ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make one. I love hearing which color combinations you choose and seeing how each dress turns out with your personal touch.

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