When I sat down to design this toddler dress, I had a clear vision in my head. I wanted delicate forget-me-not flowers scattered across a flowing white skirt, flutter sleeves that would make any little girl feel like twirling, and a fitted cornflower blue bodice that looked polished but wasn’t impossible to construct. The whole thing needed to feel like a special occasion piece, something a grandmother might make for a birthday or a flower girl outfit.
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I spent hours working out the math for the fan border at the hem, figuring out how to get those flutter sleeves to ruffle just right without being bulky, and designing appliqué flowers that actually look like forget-me-nots. Every stitch count, every increase, every decorative detail was planned with intention.
And honestly? I am SO pleased with how this turned out. The blue against the white is exactly the contrast I imagined, and those little golden yellow flower centers add just the right pop of warmth. If you love detailed projects with beautiful results, this one is going to be worth every hour you put into it.
About This Pattern
This Blue Forget Me Not Dress is designed for toddlers approximately 2 to 3 years old. The target finished chest measurement is 56 cm (about 22 inches), intended for a body chest of 50 to 52 cm with 4 to 6 cm of ease. The shoulder-to-hem length runs approximately 46 to 49 cm, with a bodice depth of about 22 cm.
This is a single-size pattern, not graded for multiple sizes. Please choose based on actual body measurements rather than age alone. Children vary so much at this stage, and you want a dress that fits comfortably without being too snug or swimming on them.
The skill level is intermediate to advanced. You will be working garment assembly, lace edging, small shaped motifs, and detailed appliqué. If you have made a few garments before and feel comfortable with shaping and joining pieces, you are ready for this project.
Materials You Will Need
Yarn
You will need sport weight or fine weight cotton yarn, approximately 125 meters per 50 grams. Here is the breakdown by color:
The total yarn needed is approximately 1,050 meters before small contrasts. Your actual usage may vary slightly, so measure on your sample.
Tools
Gauge
Getting your gauge right is essential for this dress to fit properly.
Blocked gauge: 20 double crochet (dc) stitches and 12 rows equals 10 cm by 10 cm (4 inches by 4 inches).
To make your gauge swatch, chain (ch) 32. Work a double crochet in the third chain from hook and in each remaining chain across. You should have 30 dc. Work 18 rows total. Wash and dry the swatch exactly as you plan to care for the finished garment, then measure the central 20 dc and 12 rows.
If your measurements do not match, change your hook size and try again. This step is not optional for garments, trust me on this one.
Abbreviations and Terminology
This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout. Here are all the stitches and terms you will encounter:
Important counting rule: The turning ch 1 or ch 2 does NOT count as a stitch anywhere in this pattern. When joining rounds, join to the first actual stitch, not to a chain.
Front Bodice Instructions
Rows 1 through 14
With cornflower blue yarn and your 3.5 mm hook, ch 58.
Row 1: Dc in the 3rd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across. You should have 56 dc. Turn.
Rows 2 through 14: Ch 2, dc in every st across (56 dc). Turn after each row. Do not work a stitch into the turning chain.
Armhole Shaping, Row 15
Sl st in the first 4 stitches. Ch 2, then dc in each of the next 48 stitches. Leave the final 4 stitches unworked. Turn. You now have 48 dc. Those 4 unworked stitches on each side create a 2 cm underarm ledge.
Rows 16 through 20
Ch 2, dc in all 48 stitches. Turn after each row (48 dc).
At this point, place removable markers around the outermost 10 stitches at each edge. The central 28 stitches form your neckline opening.
First Shoulder, Rows 21 through 26
Ch 2, dc in the first 10 stitches only. Leave the remaining 38 stitches unworked. Turn (10 dc).
Work 5 more rows of 10 dc, turning each row. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Second Shoulder, Rows 21 through 26
With the same side of the panel facing you, attach yarn at the opposite outer edge of Row 20. Work toward the center: ch 2 and dc across only the outermost 10 stitches. Turn.
Work 5 more rows of 10 dc. Fasten off.
Both shoulder straps should have 6 rows above Row 20.
Front Bodice Checkpoint
Back Bodice Instructions
Rows 1 through 14
Using cornflower blue, make a second panel exactly as the Front Rows 1 through 14. You should have 56 dc each row. Mark the center between stitches 28 and 29.
Left Half, Rows 15 through 23
Row 15: Sl st in the first 4 sts. Ch 2, dc in the next 24 sts, stopping at the center marker. Leave the other half unworked. Turn (24 dc).
Rows 16 through 23: Ch 2, dc in each st. Turn (24 dc). Fasten off.
Right Half, Rows 15 through 23
Return to the unworked half of Row 14. Attach yarn at the center marker and work toward the outer edge: ch 2, dc in the next 24 sts, leaving the final 4 sts unworked. Turn (24 dc).
Work Rows 16 through 23 the same as the left half. Fasten off.
The center edges remain separate to create the back opening.
Back Shoulders, Rows 24 through 26
On each half, attach yarn at the outer armhole edge of Row 23. Dc across the outermost 10 sts only. Leave the inner 14 sts unworked. Turn.
Work 2 more rows of 10 dc. Fasten off.
The two 14-st inner gaps create a 28-st back neckline.
Joining the Bodice
Block both panels to the target measurements before joining.
With right sides together, join each pair of 10-st shoulder tops using mattress stitch. To do this, align the matching edges and use your tapestry needle to pick up one small strand from each edge alternately. Tighten gradually so the join lies flat without pulling the seam shorter than the fabric.
Join the side edges from the foundation edge through Row 14 only. Match your rows carefully and keep all upper edges open for the armholes.
Turn right side out.
Pre-Skirt Checkpoint
The lower edge has 56 foundation stitches on each panel, giving you 112 stitches total around the bottom. The back slit begins above Row 14.
Try the bodice on a correctly sized dress form or the child if possible. Check the chest ease and head access before adding the weight of the skirt.
Skirt Construction
Round 1
With white yarn, join at a side seam of the 112-st lower bodice edge.
Ch 2. Repeat the following around: dc in the next foundation st, 2 dc in the next foundation st. Work this repeat 56 times. Join (168 dc).
Rounds 2 through 22
Ch 2, dc in each st around. Join and turn (168 dc).
For the contrast stripe, switch to your bodice color (cornflower blue) for Rounds 18 and 19, then return to white. Do not carry long floats on the inside.
Round 23
Ch 2. Repeat the following around: dc in the next 6 sts, 2 dc in the next st. Work this repeat 24 times. Join (192 dc).
Round 24
Ch 2. Repeat the following around: dc in the next 7 sts, 2 dc in the next st. Work this repeat 24 times. Join (216 dc).
Round 25
Ch 2. Repeat the following around: dc in the next 8 sts, 2 dc in the next st. Work this repeat 24 times. Join (240 dc).
Hem Foundation
Ch 1. Sc in every st around. Join (240 sc).
Change to your accent color (cornflower blue) for the fan border. The body of the skirt should measure approximately 21 cm. Only adjust after measuring your blocked sample.
Flutter Sleeves
Sleeve Foundation
Use cornflower blue and your 3.5 mm hook. On one armhole, identify the shoulder seam.
Measure 6 cm down the front edge and 6 cm down the back edge from the shoulder seam. Mark both points.
Join yarn at the front marker. Work 30 sc evenly across the 12 cm upper arc to the back marker, crossing over the shoulder seam. Do not work around the lower underarm.
Flutter Rows
Turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each sc across (60 dc). Turn.
Row 3: Ch 2. Repeat the following across: dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st. Work this repeat 30 times (90 dc). Turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in every st across (90 sc). Fasten off.
Repeat on the other armhole, matching the marked arc and stitch counts exactly. This creates one softly ruffled cap sleeve on each side.
Lace Hem Border
Hem Round 1
With cornflower blue, join in any of the 240 hem foundation sc.
Ch 1 and sc in that same stitch.
Repeat the following 24 times: skip the next 4 foundation sts, work 11 tr in the next st, skip the next 4 foundation sts, sc in the next st.
The last sc location is your starting sc. Instead of making a second sc there, join to the first sc.
You now have 24 fans of 11 tr each and 24 sc anchors.
Hem Round 2
Ch 1, sc in the same anchor.
For each fan: ch 1, then work dc in each of its 11 tr with ch 1 between each adjacent dc, ch 1, sc in the next anchor.
On the last fan, join to the first sc instead of making a duplicate anchor.
Each fan now has 11 dc and 12 ch-1 spaces.
Hem Round 3
Ch 1. Sc in each sc anchor, each dc, and each ch-1 space around. Join and fasten off.
You should have 576 sc total (24 fans times 24 stitches each).
Keep your tension relaxed. When blocking, wet-block individual fans into smooth rounded scallops without pulling the skirt waist wider.
Forget-Me-Not Flowers
These sweet five-petal flowers are what make this dress so special. The two-round center and petal construction create realistic forget-me-nots.
Five-Petal Center
With golden yellow and your 3 mm hook, make a magic ring. To do this, make an adjustable loop around two fingers, insert your hook through it, and draw up the working yarn.
Ch 1, then work 5 sc into the ring. Pull the tail to tighten the center and join with a sl st to the first sc.
Round 2: Work 2 sc in every st around. Join (10 sc). Fasten off.
Five Petals
Join cornflower blue to any stitch of the center.
Repeat the following 5 times: ch 2, work (2 dc, 1 tr, 2 dc) in the next center st, ch 2, sl st in the next center st.
All 10 center stitches are used. Join and fasten off.
The finished flower should measure approximately 4 to 5 cm. For smaller forget-me-nots, use a 2.5 mm hook.
Large Waist Flower
Make the same center as above.
For each petal, replace the middle stitch group with (2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc) and use ch 3 at both sides instead of ch 2.
For a fuller bouquet effect, layer one small flower on top of a large one, offsetting the petals. Sew through both centers to secure.
Leaves and Small Flowers
Pointed Leaf
With sage green and your 3 mm hook, ch 9.
Working along one side of the chain: sl st in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, dc in the next 3 ch, hdc in the next ch, and (sc, ch 2, sc) in the last ch.
Now continue along the opposite side of the same chain: hdc in the next ch, dc in the next 3 ch, hdc in the next ch, sc in the next ch, sl st in the last ch.
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Embroider a straight vein down the middle if desired.
Tiny Filler Flower
With a contrast color and your 3 mm hook, make a magic ring.
Repeat the following 5 times into the ring: ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st.
Tighten the ring, fasten off, and sew the center securely. Embroider a contrasting center using three short straight stitches.
How Many to Make
If you prefer clustered forget-me-not versions, use 3 small flowers in place of each large lower-front flower, for 12 small flowers total.
Appliqué Placement
Lay your blocked dress flat. Mark the front center and both side seams.
Arrange your motifs 3 to 5 cm above the start of the lace hem, distributing them evenly between the side seams. Only overlap the leaf bases, never their tips.
Baste everything in place first. Then sew around all edges and through every layered center with small matching stitches. Take your time here, as secure appliqués are essential for a child-worn garment.
Waist Sash and Decorative Finish
Ribbon Sash Option
Use soft satin ribbon 2 cm wide. Cut the following pieces:
Turn raw ends under 1 cm twice and stitch them flat.
Fit the waist piece around the 56 cm waist, overlap its finished ends at center back, and sew both long edges to the dress without constricting the fabric.
Form a flat bow from the 26 cm piece. Wrap its middle with a short matching crochet band and sew at the front-left waist. Sew the large flower at the front-right waist.
Position the two tails diagonally below the large flower. Stitch down their full lengths and secure their turned ends.
Sew the two tiny flowers near the front strap bases.
Safety note: Avoid detachable pins, clips, beads, or long loose ribbon ties on children’s clothing.
Yarn-Only Alternative
With cornflower blue, ch 113. Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and across (112 sc). Work 3 more sc rows. Fasten off.
Block to the actual waist measurement and sew flat around the dress.
Small Crochet Bow
Ch 25. Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and across (24 sc). Work 8 sc rows total.
Fold the short ends to the center and sew. Wrap the center with a 6-st-wide, 6-row sc strip. Sew securely.
Neckline Edging
Using cornflower blue, join at the back neck.
Work 1 sc per horizontal stitch and approximately 2 sc per dc row-end around the neck, excluding the vertical center-back slit. At inner corners, work sc2tog across the corner if needed to lie flat.
Join. Work one more round of sc. Join and fasten off.
The exact edge count depends on your blocked row gauge. Keep both sides symmetrical.
Back Bands and Closures
Back Bands
Along each vertical back-slit edge, work 2 sc into each dc row-end for Rows 15 through 23. You should have 18 sc.
Turn. Work 2 more rows of 18 sc. Fasten off.
Lightly block the two bands so they overlap by about 1 cm without pulling the back panel.
Closures
Sew three snaps through small soft backing patches at the following locations:
Align paired halves before stitching. Cover exposed backing edges with soft fabric.
Test that the opening allows easy dressing without pulling the neckline.
Blocking and Finishing
Weave in all ends through several stitches, reverse direction, and secure before trimming.
Wash according to your yarn label. Gently press out water in a towel. Do not wring.
Pin the bodice to 56 cm chest circumference. Ease the skirt outward without stretching the waist. Shape the lace scallops, sleeve ruffles, and appliqués individually.
Dry completely on a flat surface before wearing.
Care Instructions
Hand-wash cool if compatible with all materials. Support the wet garment and dry flat. Do not hang while wet.
Check snaps, seams, ribbon, and appliqué attachments before each wear. Repair any loose parts before use.
This dress is designed as occasion clothing, not sleepwear. Use with a sewn cotton slip or suitable underdress where the lace fabric is open.
Sample Review Measurements
After blocking, record these measurements to confirm your sizing:
Stitch Count Verification
Final Thoughts on the Blue Forget Me Not Dress Crochet Pattern
This dress is a labor of love, there is no way around that. Between the bodice construction, the carefully increased skirt, the detailed lace border, and all those sweet little flowers and leaves, you are looking at a project that will take some dedicated time. But the result? A keepsake-quality dress that could become a family heirloom.
I designed every element of this Blue Forget Me Not Dress crochet pattern to work together harmoniously. The flutter sleeves frame little shoulders beautifully. The fan border adds movement and sophistication. And those forget-me-nots scattered across the skirt create the kind of detail that makes people stop and say, "Wait, you MADE that?"
Take your time with the gauge swatch. Count your stitches at each checkpoint. Block thoroughly. And most importantly, enjoy the process. This is the kind of project where you can really see your skills in action.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next project. I hope it brings joy both in the making and in the wearing. If you make this dress, I would absolutely love to see it! Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group. Seeing your finished projects is honestly the best part of designing.
If this pattern caught your eye, go ahead and pin it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start. And if you do make this sweet little dress, please leave a comment below. I read every single one and love hearing about your projects!
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