Filet crochet hearts with lace borders? That sounds intimidating, right? I promise you it is far more approachable than it looks. If you can work a double crochet and follow a simple increase pattern, you already have the skills to make this stunning table runner.
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The construction breaks down into manageable pieces. You will crochet four separate heart motifs, add a delicate chain lace border to each one, then join them with a small overlap. No complicated shaping worked all at once. No confusing charts to decode. Just one heart at a time, repeated four times.
Whether you are an intermediate crocheter ready to try something new or a confident beginner looking for your next challenge, this pattern meets you where you are. I will walk you through every row, every stitch count, and every tricky spot so you can create a beautiful Navy Heart Lace Table Runner that looks like it belongs in a vintage heirloom collection.
About This Navy Heart Lace Table Runner
This crochet pattern creates a gorgeous table runner featuring four individually crocheted filet hearts in navy blue, each surrounded by white chain lace and scalloped fans, finished with a fine navy edge. The hearts overlap slightly to form a continuous runner perfect for dining tables, entryway consoles, or dresser tops.
The design uses shaped rows to create clean, reproducible heart outlines. You will work from the bottom point of each heart upward toward the cleft, increasing steadily to form the classic heart silhouette. The filet technique creates an open, lacy texture within the solid heart body, giving it visual interest without adding complexity.
Target finished size: Each bordered heart measures approximately 30 to 35 cm wide and 31 to 34 cm tall. The completed runner measures about 110 to 120 cm long after accounting for the 3 to 5 cm overlaps between hearts.
Materials You Will Need
Yarn:
Hook:
Notions:
Gauge: 20 double crochet stitches by 11 rows equals 10 cm square, measured before adding the edging. The heart body reaches a maximum width of 49 double crochet positions, which works out to approximately 24.5 cm.
Take time to check your gauge before committing to all four hearts. Consistent sizing across all motifs is essential for a professional finished look.
Stitch Abbreviations and Definitions
Before we begin, let me define every stitch and abbreviation you will encounter in this pattern:
ch = chain: Wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop on hook. This creates the foundation and spacing throughout the pattern.
sl st = slip stitch: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion. Used for joining and moving across stitches without adding height.
sc = single crochet: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops. The shortest standard crochet stitch.
hdc = half double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. Medium height stitch.
dc = double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops. The main stitch used for the heart body.
st/sts = stitch or stitches
sp = space: The gap created by chain stitches, where you will work into rather than into a solid stitch.
RS/WS = right side or wrong side of your work
rep = repeat
Increase = Working 2 stitches into one stitch
sc2tog or dc2tog = Single crochet two together or double crochet two together. This joins the next 2 stitches into 1, creating a decrease.
Important note: Turning chains do NOT count as a stitch unless a step explicitly says they do. This keeps your stitch counts accurate.
Heart Body Instructions: Make Four
You will create four identical heart bodies using Color A (navy blue). Work from the lower point upward toward the cleft.
Row 1
Chain 4. Work 3 double crochet stitches in the fourth chain from hook. The unused chains serve as foundation only and do not count as a fourth stitch.
Stitch count: 3 dc. Turn.
Row 2
Chain 2 (does not count as a stitch). Work 2 dc in first stitch, dc in middle stitch, 2 dc in last stitch.
Stitch count: 5 stitches. Turn.
Rows 3 through 24: Shaping the Heart
Each row increases by 2 stitches. Work 2 dc in the first stitch, work across the middle according to the lace rule below, then work 2 dc in the last stitch.
Row n will have 2n+1 positions. Use these checkpoints to verify your counts:
The Lace Rule
On rows divisible by 3 (rows 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, and 24), you will create the filet lace pattern:
After the first increase, work (ch 1, skip next position, dc in next position) as many times as possible before reaching the last 2 old positions. Then ch 1, skip the penultimate position, and work 2 dc in the last position.
Example for Row 3: 2 dc in first st, ch 1, skip 1, dc in next, ch 1, skip 1, 2 dc in last st = 7 positions total.
All rows NOT divisible by 3 are solid double crochet rows. Simply increase at each end and dc across all middle stitches.
Rows 25 through 28: Even Rows
Work even over 49 positions without increasing.
Rows 25, 26, and 28: Double crochet in every position. (49 stitches)
Row 27: Dc in first stitch, then work (ch 1, skip 1, dc in next) 24 times. This creates 25 dc plus 24 ch-1 spaces.
Fasten off at the end of Row 28.
Shaping the Two Lobes
The top of each heart features two rounded lobes separated by a central cleft. You will work each lobe separately.
Marking the Split
With the right side facing you, count across Row 28. Mark position 25 for the central cleft. Leave this position unworked.
Work each lobe separately. Remember, ch 2 never counts as a stitch.
Lobe Row 1
Join Color A at the outside edge for the first lobe and work dc in 24 positions. For the second lobe, join at the cleft side and work 24 positions. This allows the same row instructions to mirror naturally.
Stitch count: 24 stitches. Turn.
Lobe Row 2
Ch 2, dc2tog over first 2 stitches, dc in next 20 stitches, dc2tog over last 2 stitches.
Stitch count: 22 stitches. Turn.
Lobe Row 3
Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 18 stitches, dc2tog.
Stitch count: 20 stitches. Turn.
Lobe Row 4
Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 16 stitches, dc2tog.
Stitch count: 18 stitches. Turn.
Lobe Row 5
Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 14 stitches, dc2tog.
Stitch count: 16 stitches. Turn.
Lobe Row 6
Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 12 stitches, dc2tog.
Stitch count: 14 stitches. Turn.
Lobe Row 7
Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 10 stitches, dc2tog.
Stitch count: 12 stitches. Fasten off.
Work the second lobe exactly the same way. You should now have a symmetric heart with a 7-row cleft and two softly sloping tops.
Smoothing the Body Edge
Join Color A at the lower point and single crochet evenly around the entire body edge:
If your edging begins to ruffle, reduce to 1 sc in selected row-ends. Mark the point and cleft positions. Join and fasten off.
This is an eased edging, not a fixed-count round. The goal is a smooth, flat edge that prepares the heart for the lace border.
Open Lace and Scallop Border
Now you will add the beautiful white lace border that frames each heart. This section uses Color B (white) for most rounds, with a final edge in Color A.
Round 1: Outline in Color B
Join Color B at the bottom point. Single crochet in each edging stitch around. At the middle point stitch, work (sc, ch 2, sc). At the cleft, work sc2tog over the 2 central stitches to draw it inward slightly.
Join to the first sc. Lay your piece flat and record your edging count. Use this same count for the remaining three hearts. A flat heart matters more than forcing a specific perimeter count.
Round 2: Mesh
Slip stitch into the point space. Ch 1, then work (sc, ch 5, sc) in the point.
Continue around: ch 5, skip 2 stitches, sc in next stitch. Repeat from * around.
At the cleft, use ch 3 in place of ch 5 to draw it inward.
Adjust the final skip to 1 or 3 stitches if needed to complete the round evenly. Join to the first sc. Mark the point loop.
Round 3: Mesh
Slip stitch into the first ch-5 loop. Ch 1, sc into the loop.
Continue around: ch 5, sc in next loop. Repeat from * around.
At the marked point loop, work (sc, ch 5, sc) to add one loop and maintain the heart shape. At the cleft, use ch 3 again.
Ch 5 and join to the first sc. Lay flat before continuing to check that the piece is not cupping or ruffling.
Round 4: Fans
Slip stitch into the first loop. Work (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) in each loop around.
In the cleft loop, use a smaller fan: (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) to avoid crowding.
Join and fasten off. Each normal fan contains 9 stitches. The cleft fan contains 5 stitches.
Round 5: Fine Edge in Color A
Join Color A anywhere along the edge. Slip stitch loosely in each fan stitch, ch 1 between neighboring fans.
Join invisibly, fasten off, and weave in your ends.
Troubleshooting tip: If the outer edge contracts and pulls inward, use a slightly larger hook for this round only.
Color Consistency
Keep all four heart centers in navy blue and all four lace surrounds in white, with the same fine navy edge on each. Using consistent yarn thickness across all motifs ensures they will match in size when blocked.
Blocking Each Heart
Blocking transforms your finished hearts from slightly uneven to beautifully polished.
Soak each heart briefly following the guidelines on your yarn label. Press gently in towels to remove excess water. Pin each piece to identical dimensions, shaping the two lobes evenly and gently opening each lace loop.
Do not stretch one heart to compensate for a different gauge. If your hearts vary significantly in size, consider remaking the outlier rather than forcing a match.
Allow pieces to dry completely before joining.
Assembling the Table Runner
Arranging the Motifs
Lay all four hearts facing the same direction, points downward. Place the point of heart 2 over the cleft of heart 1, overlapping approximately 3 to 5 cm. Repeat for hearts 3 and 4.
Choose an overlap that hides the join while keeping both lobes of each heart visible. The total runner length equals 4 times the heart height minus 3 times the overlap.
Sewing the Joins
Using matching thread or split cotton yarn, make small whipstitches only where the two lace borders touch. Secure an area about 6 to 8 cm wide at each overlap.
Do not sew a hard straight seam through the centers. Keep joins flat with no dangling loops underneath. Lift the runner gently to confirm all sections remain securely connected.
Care Instructions
Hand wash your finished table runner in cool water if your yarn label allows. Avoid wringing, which can distort the delicate lace. Lay flat to dry and reshape all scallops while damp.
Use colorfast yarn to prevent the darker navy center from bleeding into the pale white border during washing.
When using the runner on your table, place a protective layer beneath hot serving dishes to prevent heat damage to the cotton fibers.
Final Quality Check
Before considering your project complete, confirm the following:
Curling along the edges indicates the border needs more ease. Add stitches or work more loosely.
Waves or ruffling indicates too many edge stitches. Reduce your stitch count or work more tightly.
Record your finished dimensions and actual yarn consumption. This information proves invaluable if you make this runner again or wish to adjust the size.
Tips for Success
Count frequently. The stitch counts at the end of each row serve as checkpoints. If your numbers do not match, you will catch mistakes early when they are easy to fix.
Block before joining. This cannot be overstated. Blocking evens out your tension and reveals any sizing discrepancies between hearts.
Take your time with the lace border. The chain loops create the beautiful open lacework, but they can twist or tangle. Smooth out each round as you go.
Use good lighting. Navy blue yarn can be difficult to see, especially when working into chain spaces. A bright lamp or daylight makes a significant difference.
This Navy Heart Lace Table Runner makes a wonderful gift for weddings, anniversaries, or housewarmings. The classic navy and white color combination suits both traditional and modern décor, and the quality of mercerized cotton ensures it will last for years with proper care.
I hope you absolutely love making this beautiful table runner as much as I loved creating this pattern. If you try it, please save this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you are ready to start, and leave a comment below to let me know how yours turns out. I would love to see your finished hearts!
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